Forged Rb20

[Roy]

lol. I will defend the lil 20 to the death. IMO IT HAS A PLACE AS A PERFORMANCE ENGINE!

I dont care if people are tuners, backyard mechanics, professional mechanics or just average punters who pay workshops to get things done.

Every engine has its merits. Funny that those that raced the FJ20, cossie YBB and RB20 rated it as often the best 2l engine in grp a circles. Could not match the power of the YBB but was the most drivable, looking after its tyres better and easier in the wet. I understand RB20 was viewed to be better then FJ for same reasons.

so there are better things out there, sure....but its not like the RB20 hasnt shown itself to be capable.... funny that for a pos engine can easily get R32s down the qtr in low 12s and around circuits quicker then all the SR20 and RB25s around them...most recently T67 RB25 that was even stevens in a straight line...i suspect he spent a little more time on corner exit with wheelspin. Not to mention Marlin getting his targa car through stages quicker then well steered GTRs and Porsches

[Driftnuttz]

EDIT: I can just see this happening "Hey nice car, whats that an RB20 in there?" "Nah mate, RB24! Its got custom pistons, mismatched crank and rods, heaps of money spent on the head, cams, expensive turbo and manifold" "oooooh ok, well my stockish RB25 will smash that and its standard bottom end" "yeah mate but its not unique like my RB24" "yeah you're right, its just faster instead"

LOL maybe, but I wont be doing a rb24 and wont be spending "heaps of money" on head and cams. I will be doing all the work myself.

Here is what I am going to be running when mine is done. A redtop block with a silvertop head, port and polish work, ported and matched intake with front facing plenum, redtop cams (248in/240ex), rb25det turbo, arp heads studds, 10lb flywheel, front mount, 7mgte 440cc injectors, z32 maf, and 3inch turbo back with no cat. I am going with the redtop cams cause the intake is a 248 vs 240, the ex is the same. With a tune to run it all. I am looking for close to 300whp at around 15psi, if I get that then I will be happy. I will have less then 1000 bucks in this setup.

[Roy]

EDIT: I can just see this happening "Hey nice car, whats that an RB20 in there?" "Nah mate, RB24! Its got custom pistons, mismatched crank and rods, heaps of money spent on the head, cams, expensive turbo and manifold" "oooooh ok, well my stockish RB25 will smash that and its standard bottom end" "yeah mate but its not unique like my RB24" "yeah you're right, its just faster instead"

Crock of sh!t!!!!! Funny how a TD06 RB20 can live with a T67 powered RB25 that was making 320ish..and end up actually faster around a track. So if a std RB20 isnt getting smashed then what makes you think an RB24 would . And not eberyone is that arrogant and judgemental about how others have spent their money (which doesnt mean we dont share advice and learn from each others mistakes)

[Rolls]

so there are better things out there, sure....but its not like the RB20 hasnt shown itself to be capable.... funny that for a pos engine can easily get R32s down the qtr in low 12s and around circuits quicker then all the SR20 and RB25s around them...most recently T67 RB25 that was even stevens in a straight line...i suspect he spent a little more time on corner exit with wheelspin. Not to mention Marlin getting his targa car through stages quicker then well steered GTRs and Porsches

On the track it is a different story being as you can keep the revs up and hence take advantage of a bigger turbo, around town is mainly what Im talking about and really the rb20 does suck compared to a VCT enabled 25 around town, no doubt about it.

So the sr sucks too then? As last I checked they were 2.0l too. Its not the fact they are 2.0l its the fact that nobody wants to make the heads better. I have said it before ,and will post links to back me up, the head is what makes the power. So, if the head flows like crap, how can you make good power and a good power band? You cant. So, without head work your really holding yourself back and setting yourself up to fail.

Yeah but you don't need headwork on a 25, it works great as it is, I'm yet to see any evidence of headwork on an rb20 making any difference to the low down torque which is imo where the motor is lacking, top end isn't the issue it can still make big power if you want.

SR vs rb20 for say 250kw the SR will be better around town as it is a 4 pot which means bigger exhaust pulses and hence it can spool turbos nicer than the 20. I personally am not a huge fan of them though.

Making the head flow better will not automaticly make it more of a dog down low. I dont mean porting the hell out of the ports when I say make it flow better, cause that will do just what you say. The compression can be changed so thats really a moot point. If you get the head to flow better, and up the compression it will make the a world of difference in the lowend and spool time of the turbo. Now will it make the rb20 as good or better then the 25/26/30? No, as they are bigger and will be easier to make power with. It will however make the rb20 a lot better.

I will keep you guys posted cause I will be doing head work and uping the compression.

Why don't you spend all this money porting heads and upping compression on an rb25 or rb30 instead? It doesn't magically cost more because it has more capacity, it should cost pretty much the same amount if you are building a motor from scratch.

I just don't get the point in spending this money on an rb20, sure you could make it better but when its 'better' it will still be worse than a stock rb25, and if you spent that same money on an rb25 or rb30 instead then it would be light years ahead of your worked 20.

Crock of sh!t!!!!! Funny how a TD06 RB20 can live with a T67 powered RB25 that was making 320ish..and end up actually faster around a track. So if a std RB20 isnt getting smashed then what makes you think an RB24 would . And not eberyone is that arrogant and judgemental about how others have spent their money (which doesnt mean we dont share advice and learn from each others mistakes)

I'm pretty sure he was talking about on the street, on the track it is moot and both motors can be strong performers due to being able to keep revs up and be at high speeds (more load), also on the track the lower midrange torque is often a bad thing as it will cause more wheelspin, the 20 certainly can shine in this place like you are talking about. Though if you are starting from scratch and building a motor, why not start with the better base?

Edited July 18, 2011 by Rolls

[Roy]

But what is the point when between 160-200rwkws is plenty on the street. You cant even give 2nd gear a blip without losing your licence. If you mod the car then dont use it where it is safe and legal then thats a shame. On the street my thing drives like SSS Pulsar which us fine for old farts like me

[Driftnuttz]

Rolls- Your not getting what I am saying. I AM NOT SPENDING A LOT ON THIS MOTOR. I will have less then 1000 usd in my motor when its done. No way in hell I get a rb25det setup for anything close to that here in the states. I guess it may be easier for you guys cause they sold cars there with them, but here every rb is imported and costs more. Here rb20det redtops run for around 800, silvertops 1500, rb25det s1/s2 about 2500, a neo 3000, a rb26 4000, and if you can find a rb30 block it will be 1500 by itself and then you still need to buy everything to bolt to it. So here in the states it wont be a waste of money to work a rb20.

[Marlin]

I'm glad you're here Roy to stick up fir the often maligned RB20!

Such a good little engine, and so perfectly suited to a fast 2wd car....... Note I said fast car, not impressive dyno curve car.

[GTSBoy]

Rolls- Your not getting what I am saying. I AM NOT SPENDING A LOT ON THIS MOTOR. I will have less then 1000 usd in my motor when its done. No way in hell I get a rb25det setup for anything close to that here in the states. I guess it may be easier for you guys cause they sold cars there with them, but here every rb is imported and costs more. Here rb20det redtops run for around 800, silvertops 1500, rb25det s1/s2 about 2500, a neo 3000, a rb26 4000, and if you can find a rb30 block it will be 1500 by itself and then you still need to buy everything to bolt to it. So here in the states it wont be a waste of money to work a rb20.

No twin cam RBs were ever really sold new in Aus. They are all 2nd hand import, just like in the US. And your listed prices are very similar to what it costs here to buy all those same engines. With the exception that no-one here would buy a red top RB20, so they have zero value, and RB30 blocks are used as boat anchors so also have nearly zero value (apart from for the minority of our population who want them for sticking under twin cam heads.)

[cannabiscorpse]

I wasnt going to say anything, but this is off topic plenty as it is. The way i see it- rb20s and rb25s are both great engines. Especially for the price of the cars they come in. I have no hesitation in saying that for the price of my r33 gtst, i would have easily been happy with an r32 gtst. Both engines benifit from small, low cost mods, and both respond well to those mods. In all seriousness, my r33 was 4 grand, and i will probably spend at least that doing it up to make some more hp. And i know by the way it handles and brakes, that i wont be disappointed with my decision to chase some more hp.

Most of these skylines 32,33 gtst, 34 gtt are great in standard form, and for the minimal amount we pay, we can be very happy once we do some mods.

[Marlin]

Who cares about the thread!!!!!!!!... who wants to print money by coming into business with me selling RB's in the USofA?!?!?

[smcqueen89]

No disrespect here, but smcqueen89 I think you need to realize as Mafia has pointed out, that a lot of the users of the forum here, esp Roy aka "Mr RB20", have been playing with these cars and motors a lot longer than a single post can show. Reading between the lines sometimes means taking advice for what it is, without question. No one tries to re invent the wheel to do something different. People are letting you know their experiences of what and where to best spend cash. Turning around and having a go at people for their age or experience isnt cool, but as a guess by your own username, people have been playing with these cars while you were still in primary school.

At some point when you want real advice, and dont want to try argue something that has been done to death, then the people who know best wont be giving up that advice so easily.

i do see mafia point of view but like as you said this is about getting advice of people not to try to put people down like the comments he made.... hence thats y i commented the way i did

and yes you are right i do not no much about enigines or about most things on my car but i have done my reserch from this site and from others and by saying this i fully agree with roy

i am not someone that is aboul to put alot of money into my car and say that 4k that i would be aboul to put into my rb20 will do much more then just puting in that stock 25 as said before my r32 is nearly stock and i havent yet seen a r33 that has pulled away from me if not behind me..

i agree if someone is to spend alot of money an d on motor they should be puting in a 25 as u can get more power out of them...

there was a comment from marfia that the rb20 will not win around the track and that is what counts... for one roy thinks deferntly from what i have read and second i am not going to the track to be then fastest but to injoy myself... just like you see holdens down at the skids..

i use this forum alot for information and appreciate when i get it but but every person has there on views and goals and shouldnt be called stupid or watever else coz of it

[Bl4cK32]

[Rolls]

If the motors cost that much over there (note not much more than they do here, a neo rb25 complete motor is almost $3k here as well) because we have to import them as well then keep a STOCK rb20 block and just buy a TD06 kit or a highflowed stock turbo.

A highflowed rb20 turbo will make 240kw without issue, I'm sure you have turbo builders in the states that can do this for you, and just use a stock rb20.

But what is the point when between 160-200rwkws is plenty on the street. You cant even give 2nd gear a blip without losing your licence. If you mod the car then dont use it where it is safe and legal then thats a shame. On the street my thing drives like SSS Pulsar which us fine for old farts like me

The reality is most people don't want this nor do they do this.

Edited July 18, 2011 by Rolls

[Roy]

Meh, all Rbs are gay. I am all about Cosworth now anyway

[Driftnuttz]

I am keeping the block stock, I am just trying to get the head to flow better so it will be a better overall motor.

I will gladly go in to the engine sales and make a ton of money with you.... Shipping will be a bitch though....

[Marlin]

Meh, all Rbs are gay. I am all about Cosworth now anyway

Don't.

[N1 RB26]

I'm pretty sure he was talking about on the street, on the track it is moot and both motors can be strong performers due to being able to keep revs up and be at high speeds (more load), also on the track the lower midrange torque is often a bad thing as it will cause more wheelspin, the 20 certainly can shine in this place like you are talking about. Though if you are starting from scratch and building a motor, why not start with the better base?

building any motor up and not driving it on the track would be a total waste of money anyway...you live in adelaide you should know what it's like i baby the hell out of mine and i still manage to get pulled over almost everytime i go out and my 32 isn't even loud let alone thrashing my car and drawing attention to myself...if your just gonna stick to the street then you should just stick with bolt ons or if anybody does build a motor you've got to take it to the docks at the very least

[badhairdave]

Roy, you need to come back to NSW where the silvias are fast and the skylines are slow to prove your point about rb20's being quicker than sr's

Anyway, kinda on topic: I've been wondering lately about the merits of a solid head rb20 as i contemplate buying another r32. s/h rb26 cams and lfters, probably need some new shims to get the clearences set up, some new double valve springs and rev it to 9k. leave the bottom end stock, replace as necessary. Run big f**k off turbo that doesn't come on until 5k, 1.6ish bar by 6 and still a reasonable rev range. It'll do better than 320rwkw. Need some of those rare as rocking horse shit 4.6 diff gears to go with it.

[sav man]

I am keeping the block stock, I am just trying to get the head to flow better so it will have no bottom end at all

fixed for accuracy

[Driftnuttz]

fixed for accuracy

I dont get it.....lol.

I got the head off and the hone is still vary visable on all the walls, so this tels me its been rebuilt before. No way thats a 20+ year old hone job.