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Hi guys.

I've read a few topics on the TCS slip light coming on, in some GTT's, for what appears to be no good reason.

I am now having a similar issue with my GTT.

The "slip" light comes on when traction is not lost or in danger of being lost.

Rather than turn the TCS off (and still have the TCS OFF light constantly on, on the dash, I'd like to fix the issue permanently, and operate as the factory intended.

Do any of our members have any information on TCS systems diagrams, wiring diagrams and technical details of the TCS?

Any help would be apopreciated.

Many thanks.

Jim (GTT340) :rolleyes:post-67866-0-80795200-1309213106_thumb.jpg

Edited by TR33GT-001
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The only way is to fit somthing like the TCS reversal box that I used to make, and then remove the TCS-Off bulb so it doesn't annoy you (as it will always default the TCS to "off" on startup without you touching the button)

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The only way is to fit somthing like the TCS reversal box that I used to make, and then remove the TCS-Off bulb so it doesn't annoy you (as it will always default the TCS to "off" on startup without you touching the button)

Nope. I want it to remain as factory spec, and work exactly like it is supposed to.

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I think it is mate, it's doing exactly what my "stock" GTt used to do going sedately around corners, the second the wheel speed had a diffference between front and rear it used to kick in.

Also a thing to note, are your front and rear wheels exactly the same rolling diameter?

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My TCS dosent work, never did, no light in dash, dont know how to make it work, the fuse box dosent have a slot for the TCS fuse?? Wheres the TCS motor located?? :(

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You guys must drive some crap GTT's is all I can say. LOL

The TCS does NOT go off on an off the showroom floor GTT, unless you LOSE traction.

I've owned and driven 5 now, and this is the first car that has the issue.

I'm looking for someone who has the data and the knowledge within SAU.

You out there?

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I know what your talking about, mine does the exact same thing, but very rarely. It just seems to happen every now and then when you first start it, and it usually stays on until you shut it down again.

I don't know how the hell there would be any link, but I have heard that coil packs that are on the way out may cause the issue. Mine happens pretty rarely so I have never bothered to look into it any further.

You guys must drive some crap GTT's is all I can say. LOL

The TCS does NOT go off on an off the showroom floor GTT, unless you LOSE traction.

I've owned and driven 5 now, and this is the first car that has the issue.

I'm looking for someone who has the data and the knowledge within SAU.

You out there?

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You guys must drive some crap GTT's is all I can say. LOL

The TCS does NOT go off on an off the showroom floor GTT, unless you LOSE traction.

I've owned and driven 5 now, and this is the first car that has the issue.

I'm looking for someone who has the data and the knowledge within SAU.

You out there?

No the car just used to break traction (within the detection limits of the TCS ECU) quite a bit, it's a very basic system...as I said the TCS ECU in the boot uses the difference in wheel speeds by comparing the front wheel speed with the rear wheel (gearbox speed) as soon as there is a detected difference the TCS system pulls the ignition to 3 cylinders and flips the TCS butterfly to almost fully closed (restricsts the airflow) = engine power drop

I actually know the system backwards and there really isn't much more to share other than the key points I've already mentioned, the basic gist is the car is seeing a speed difference between the gearbox speed sensor and front wheels, you need to figure out why.

Explicit data, TCS diagnostics, Wiring info and sensor output values can be found in the English version of the R34 Workshop Manual

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Dan,

Ok, that's better. I can understand that better, and thanks.

A little closer to finding out why.

GTT 340

No the car just used to break traction (within the detection limits of the TCS ECU) quite a bit, it's a very basic system...as I said the TCS ECU in the boot uses the difference in wheel speeds by comparing the front wheel speed with the rear wheel (gearbox speed) as soon as there is a detected difference the TCS system pulls the ignition to 3 cylinders and flips the TCS butterfly to almost fully closed (restricsts the airflow) = engine power drop

I actually know the system backwards and there really isn't much more to share other than the key points I've already mentioned, the basic gist is the car is seeing a speed difference between the gearbox speed sensor and front wheels, you need to figure out why.

Explicit data, TCS diagnostics, Wiring info and sensor output values can be found in the English version of the R34 Workshop Manual

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I regards to the coil related issue my car was doing that random thing I took to a sparky that does a jap stuff and he did explain ( but don't remember exactly ) that dodge coils cause other systems to react in turn bringing on multiple lights on dash including tcs slip check. Set of splitfires solved my dramas . Maybe a help or not g luck.

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  • 2 months later...

Yup agree with the top post that's your problem the coil packs just replace it with after market ones like splitfire or yellow jacks. If you leave the problem as it is you'll start to see your engine light will start to turn on if all 3 lights turn on etc you slip, tcs and engine light turn on then I'm 100% sure it's one of your coil packs miss firing. Get some one to scan your ecu to find out which one exactly and just replace it you could probably find one here for $30...or so.

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Yup agree with the top post that's your problem the coil packs just replace it with after market ones like splitfire or yellow jacks. If you leave the problem as it is you'll start to see your engine light will start to turn on if all 3 lights turn on etc you slip, tcs and engine light turn on then I'm 100% sure it's one of your coil packs miss firing. Get some one to scan your ecu to find out which one exactly and just replace it you could probably find one here for $30...or so.

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Test your Coilpacks before you go waste money on new aftermarket ones,

if you want a coilpack fix for about $30 then look at CRC urethane seal coat,

if you do Search on Missfire fires you shall see some posts i have done,

hope this helps you out good luck,

Cheer`s Chuckie

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