Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Traction Control Issues

TR33GT-001
 Share

Recommended Posts

TR33GT-001 Collaborator

TR33GT-001

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys.

I've read a few topics on the TCS slip light coming on, in some GTT's, for what appears to be no good reason.

I am now having a similar issue with my GTT.

The "slip" light comes on when traction is not lost or in danger of being lost.

Rather than turn the TCS off (and still have the TCS OFF light constantly on, on the dash, I'd like to fix the issue permanently, and operate as the factory intended.

Do any of our members have any information on TCS systems diagrams, wiring diagrams and technical details of the TCS?

Any help would be apopreciated.

Many thanks.

Jim (GTT340) :rolleyes:post-67866-0-80795200-1309213106_thumb.jpg

Edited by TR33GT-001
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369241-r34-gtt-traction-control-issues/
Share on other sites
666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

The only way is to fit somthing like the TCS reversal box that I used to make, and then remove the TCS-Off bulb so it doesn't annoy you (as it will always default the TCS to "off" on startup without you touching the button)

TR33GT-001 Collaborator

TR33GT-001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The only way is to fit somthing like the TCS reversal box that I used to make, and then remove the TCS-Off bulb so it doesn't annoy you (as it will always default the TCS to "off" on startup without you touching the button)

Nope. I want it to remain as factory spec, and work exactly like it is supposed to.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

I think it is mate, it's doing exactly what my "stock" GTt used to do going sedately around corners, the second the wheel speed had a diffference between front and rear it used to kick in.

Also a thing to note, are your front and rear wheels exactly the same rolling diameter?

TR33GT-001 Collaborator

TR33GT-001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You guys must drive some crap GTT's is all I can say. LOL

The TCS does NOT go off on an off the showroom floor GTT, unless you LOSE traction.

I've owned and driven 5 now, and this is the first car that has the issue.

I'm looking for someone who has the data and the knowledge within SAU.

You out there?

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

I know what your talking about, mine does the exact same thing, but very rarely. It just seems to happen every now and then when you first start it, and it usually stays on until you shut it down again.

I don't know how the hell there would be any link, but I have heard that coil packs that are on the way out may cause the issue. Mine happens pretty rarely so I have never bothered to look into it any further.

You guys must drive some crap GTT's is all I can say. LOL

The TCS does NOT go off on an off the showroom floor GTT, unless you LOSE traction.

I've owned and driven 5 now, and this is the first car that has the issue.

I'm looking for someone who has the data and the knowledge within SAU.

You out there?

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

You guys must drive some crap GTT's is all I can say. LOL

The TCS does NOT go off on an off the showroom floor GTT, unless you LOSE traction.

I've owned and driven 5 now, and this is the first car that has the issue.

I'm looking for someone who has the data and the knowledge within SAU.

You out there?

No the car just used to break traction (within the detection limits of the TCS ECU) quite a bit, it's a very basic system...as I said the TCS ECU in the boot uses the difference in wheel speeds by comparing the front wheel speed with the rear wheel (gearbox speed) as soon as there is a detected difference the TCS system pulls the ignition to 3 cylinders and flips the TCS butterfly to almost fully closed (restricsts the airflow) = engine power drop

I actually know the system backwards and there really isn't much more to share other than the key points I've already mentioned, the basic gist is the car is seeing a speed difference between the gearbox speed sensor and front wheels, you need to figure out why.

Explicit data, TCS diagnostics, Wiring info and sensor output values can be found in the English version of the R34 Workshop Manual

TR33GT-001 Collaborator

TR33GT-001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dan,

Ok, that's better. I can understand that better, and thanks.

A little closer to finding out why.

GTT 340

No the car just used to break traction (within the detection limits of the TCS ECU) quite a bit, it's a very basic system...as I said the TCS ECU in the boot uses the difference in wheel speeds by comparing the front wheel speed with the rear wheel (gearbox speed) as soon as there is a detected difference the TCS system pulls the ignition to 3 cylinders and flips the TCS butterfly to almost fully closed (restricsts the airflow) = engine power drop

I actually know the system backwards and there really isn't much more to share other than the key points I've already mentioned, the basic gist is the car is seeing a speed difference between the gearbox speed sensor and front wheels, you need to figure out why.

Explicit data, TCS diagnostics, Wiring info and sensor output values can be found in the English version of the R34 Workshop Manual

animan Enthusiast

animan

Posted
Posted

I regards to the coil related issue my car was doing that random thing I took to a sparky that does a jap stuff and he did explain ( but don't remember exactly ) that dodge coils cause other systems to react in turn bringing on multiple lights on dash including tcs slip check. Set of splitfires solved my dramas . Maybe a help or not g luck.

  • 2 months later...
shinyurikai Enthusiast

shinyurikai

Posted
Posted

Yup agree with the top post that's your problem the coil packs just replace it with after market ones like splitfire or yellow jacks. If you leave the problem as it is you'll start to see your engine light will start to turn on if all 3 lights turn on etc you slip, tcs and engine light turn on then I'm 100% sure it's one of your coil packs miss firing. Get some one to scan your ecu to find out which one exactly and just replace it you could probably find one here for $30...or so.

shinyurikai Enthusiast

shinyurikai

Posted
Posted

Yup agree with the top post that's your problem the coil packs just replace it with after market ones like splitfire or yellow jacks. If you leave the problem as it is you'll start to see your engine light will start to turn on if all 3 lights turn on etc you slip, tcs and engine light turn on then I'm 100% sure it's one of your coil packs miss firing. Get some one to scan your ecu to find out which one exactly and just replace it you could probably find one here for $30...or so.

chuckie Mentor

chuckie

Posted
Posted

Test your Coilpacks before you go waste money on new aftermarket ones,

if you want a coilpack fix for about $30 then look at CRC urethane seal coat,

if you do Search on Missfire fires you shall see some posts i have done,

hope this helps you out good luck,

Cheer`s Chuckie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Kapr
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • pogman
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By pogman · Posted

      i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • MBS206
      The Ls1 R33 Of Fury

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...