26/30 R34 Gtr **now With Results**

[nick81xd]

Using a drill press with a 1.59mm high speed high strength drill bit. Gets about 2mm max into grub screw then just bluntens the bit and game over. Tried 3 different material grub screws with same results. 7 drill bits later gets frustrating and expensive

[GTRNUR]

Have you drilled out the original oil restrictor and tapped the hole so you can screw a restrictor in? If so you could try using a brass grub screw that you could source from a fittings shop such as pirtek etc. It will drill a lot easier than a grade 12 grubscrew. The only way you can drill grade 12 accurately is with a carbide drill bit, and good luck finding them in sizes between 1-2mm. I doubt such a tool exists.

1.6mm is far too big as well. I'd honestly start with a 1.25mm and then talk to someone with a set of carburator jet reams to take it out to 1.35-1.4. I am basing this on the use of the Nitto pump and it also appears you havent drilled the oil returns any larger in the block. Add a 500kw goal and you can guarantee you will have some blow by that will add to the oil return issue.

For future reference, oil restrictors are normally just a mild steel or alloy plug with the appropriate sized hole, machined to an interference that will tap into the oil gallery. Really lazy people buy the tomei restrictors.

[nick81xd]

Yer the orginal restrictor is gone and who we got block off had already tapped a thread into it. Otherwise would of just got a 1mm knock in one and drill it out.

We have drilled out all drain back holes 2mm bigger probably doesnt show up too well in photos but thats definetly done. We have a oil drain back fitting in the back of head if we find we have too much oil in head as a back up

Hmm we were just going off the old engines restrictor sizing. So you suggest 1.4mm max hole size. I will go to enzed tommorow and see if can get a brass one i know for sure wont have drill issues.

Thanks for the input mate always good to get another brains thoughts

[jangles]

Yer the orginal restrictor is gone and who we got block off had already tapped a thread into it. Otherwise would of just got a 1mm knock in one and drill it out.

We have drilled out all drain back holes 2mm bigger probably doesnt show up too well in photos but thats definetly done. We have a oil drain back fitting in the back of head if we find we have too much oil in head as a back up

Hmm we were just going off the old engines restrictor sizing. So you suggest 1.4mm max hole size. I will go to enzed tommorow and see if can get a brass one i know for sure wont have drill issues.

Thanks for the input mate always good to get another brains thoughts

yeah, 1.6 seems far too big..

and the thing in the back of the head isnt required if the block mods are done correctly

[nick81xd]

Ok that settles it. You guys played this game more then me. I will go get 1.3mm bit and brass fitting today.

When we brought the new head it came with it so its just blanked off atm really dont want to have to use it

[nick81xd]

So with the grub screw issue sorted. we have ended up using a 1.3mm drill bit and ended up with a 1.35mm hole so it should be good if you blokes are on the money.

Allowed us to progess forward and dummy fit some manifolds and parts to work out what we need to change and ""adjust"".

Exhaust manifold had to be ground down to clear the water passage easy fix. few hoses and stuff need shortening lengthing.

Got stuck into it today and bolted all parts on. all thats left really is timing belt and covers on then flywheel and clutch.

Soon the next stage of install begin.

PICS

Hard to get a decent pic of porting

Head unwrapped, Thanks to Bundaberg engine centre of all the work done.

280 degree cams

Headgasket on and thickness before crush

Looks like a engine again with all the gear on (just dummy fitted in these photos)

will be more progress and photos on tuesday night. Plan is to have it ready to drop into car by end of night.

[GTRNUR]

Thats a thick gasket! Nearly looks like 2 gaskets!

Did you spray it with hylomar before putting on the head? If you didnt it would be worth considering unbolting the head to do that before you proceed too far further with the build. Ive seen and heard of too many metal shim head gasket leaks because of bad sealing (due to dry surface assembly) to ever forget using that stuff. It cures all machining imperfection evils.

Its a quick job to do. Cam covers off, 3 x 10mm bolts and the head studs. You don't need to remove the cams. Just use a good long tube socket and extension.

[nick81xd]

Nah didnt spray hylomar on it as it had a surface coating on it already and both cometic and engine centre said that its not nessary even at boost levels we want to run.....now you got me worried

[johnbarry88]

Looks good but I'm with gtrnur holimer is your friend recommended on every build

[GTRNUR]

Cometic are correct to a point, but there are 2 risks.

The first risk is in the surface preporation of the head and the flatness of the surfaces. Any combined variation between the two surfaces that is more than 4 thou can potentially cause a leak. Different machine shops achieve different degrees of tolerance when decking blocks and shaving heads dependant on their tooling. All are generally fine for standard head gaskets, but metal shim gaskets need <3 thou variation to be reliable. Even the viton rubber coated shim gaskets.

The second is due to distortion of the block when the head studs are torqued. While torque plate honing ensures the cylinders are machine true, you cant deck an engine with the head studs in place and torqued to spec. The effect is that the trueness of the blocks deck is compromised around the head studs. This alone will not cause a problem, but if your head or deck were already running the threshold it can put you into the danger area where leaks can happen.

Ive never seen any metal shim gasket provided with a specification stating what degree of surface preporation is acceptable. It would be interesting to ask cometic what they say is acceptable while being able to guarantee a seal. After all, gaskets are supposed to take up differences in surface variation, not just create the desired deck height.

The gasket should be fine to be reused, especially since its been used on clean surfaces and the engine hasnt run yet. Give it a good coating of spray on hylomar on both sides once, let it tack off to blue and then give it a light 2nd coat in the area's that arent evenly blue. Clean the head and block with prepsal and bolt it on again. All good.

When doing the head removal, unbolt the head studs in the opposite method of assmebly as per the service manual so you dont distort the head.

[r33_racer]

Ian going back to your comment about the grubscrews, I drilled mine on the lathe with a hss 1.0mm drill bit and it drilled fine. I did two of them for my rb25dert. However my old man did one yesterday with a hand drill and a cohss 1.5mm drill bit, drilled like butter. I have a feeling that high tensile steel grubscrews are not as tough as they used to be! They are quite abit softer then you think...its actually a little worrying lol.

Anyway back to the build, nice work with the engine mate. +1 for the hylomar too. I coated my factory headgasket with it, its good stuff. Cometic recommend a 50ra or finer surface finish as for how much variation in deck flatness they can seal they dont state anything about.

[TheGotoGuy]

+ eleventy billion for hylomar

I've never had a hylomarred mls gasket leak, even when using it a second time, ive had head studded, skimmed deck and heads leak coolant into the chambers using cometics even when used as specified by cometic. biggest PIA with hylomar is retorquing after first heat cycle. personally i prefer stock mls head gaskets with the oem viton coating, no need for hylomar then.

[nick81xd]

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Started to put engine in thursday night and yesterday arvo it was ready to fire

Started first go like we only had changed the oil.

Will be putting it on hoist to take lots of photos to show clearance around everything for future reference for people wanting to attempt the conversion.

More photos and a video will be posted tonight

Edited September 25, 2011 by nick81xd

[GTRNUR]

Much Congrats!

There is nothing like hearing an engine you have build yourself start for the first time. Its like man child birth. (too much? )

[nick81xd]

It is somewhat of a special moment hearing your doings start up and run for first time...brought a tear to our eyes..... or that could of been no exhaust causing that haha.

The clutch master cylinder and booster does not fit there is no room so thats our biggest hold up atm.

The dump pipe has to be lengthened slightly to suit new turbo location.

All intercooler piping lines up except the throttle body pipe. It just needs a new bend in it simple fix.

The engine fits in perfectly around the crossmember, Steering rack etc. Easily 1cm+ around everything. We didnt have to space down the Crossmember luckly.

The bonnet closes and finger gap above cam backing plate but with the cam cover on it doesnt even get to first latch before hitting so until carbon bonnet gets here just going to run no cover.

Had to space up the strut brace (no chance of leaving a thing of beauty in the shed) just for a bit extra engine twist room.

Really snappy throttle revs clean even on the previous 2.7 stroker tune. Cannot wait to be able to get some kays on it so see what power its going to make. Hopefully what we are aiming for so it makes the 30 conversion worthwhile.

PICS!!!!

Awaiting its new home

Sits a bit higher then a 26.

How the engine bay looks when finished, Few extras to be added but gives idea

Bonnet closed completely without cam cover on

VIDEOS :D :D

Edited September 25, 2011 by nick81xd

[nick81xd]

dont know how to embed the videos never works for me so if someone the knows can fix that. much appreciated

[TheGotoGuy]

Camming much? lol

[Little Stewy]

the job is almost finally complete, now the apprenticeship can get to cleaning the workshop up now. =P

[jas/slo32]

Sounds great, That neighborhood is bout to get real noisy.

[nick81xd]

only if you bring your car home and transbrake launch in the street....you wont