Jump to content
SAU Community

r32 air con issues

williamc
 Share

Recommended Posts

williamc Collaborator

williamc

Posted
Posted

Im in need of some help,

Had an issue a few weeks ago when the belt for the air con unit was fraying, so i ordered a new one. In the meantime my mechanic removed the faulty belt. That meant that my air con was just blowing air, but not cooled. Then it started to only blow air if put on full power. I assumed this was because of the belt missig. Anyway today i had it replaced, but STILL no air in 1,2,3 only on 4. But the air con is working, as it is now cool air, but only at full power.

Any suggestions?I tried changing the mode to feet or windscreen , but still nothing....

Any help is greatly appreciated

thanx

Will

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36941-r32-air-con-issues/
Share on other sites
Madtrang Community Regular

Madtrang

Posted
Posted

I know when u click up to 4, u hear like a relay switch so the fans can get more power.

and click off on 1,2 or 3. U might have a broken circuit to lowere power fan circuit or something. Dont realy know, just an observation made oneday playing around with mine.

Madtrang Community Regular

Madtrang

Posted
Posted

most relay's on cars are in a little black plastic box. probably best way to find is turn it from 4 and 1 2 3 and 4, so you hear the realay. And try and find it thatway.

Also mayb worth haveing a look @ the r32 GTR manaual u can download atm. IT should have something in there to help ya.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...