Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone help me out with a couple of questions please?

1. Does anyone have experience with using a torque split controller such as the HKS ETC on an R32 GTR? If so can you tell me what your impressions are?

2. I understand the R33 and 34 versions of ATTESSA and HICAS differ from the R32 system, particularly with respect to ATTESSA torque split. Has anyone researched the possibility of adapting all or part of the ATTESSA or HICAS system from an R33 or 34 into an R32?

Regards

HKS torque split controller is good for wet cond while in competition . Can set the split to keep the drive consistent and help stop the tail sliding before the front starts to bite.

Prolonged use will not do the clutch packs in the transfer case a lot of good as your running a constant slippage.

It is also a bastard to turn at slow speed unless it's in the auto position...

What differences are you expecting from the R33/R34 combo unless it is out of a VSpec which has a faster acting ATTESSA computer( but is also coupled with the hydraulic diff)

Cheers

Ken

Ken;

Thanks for the feedback on the ETC. Gotcha on the clutch packs, I take it that you wouldn't recommend using one on a daily driven car?

It's the faster acting ATTESSA I'm after. I understand the 33/34 system transfers torque to the front much sooner than the 32 system. However, from your thread I gather that this might only occur on V spec models?

Regards,

Mark

Supposedly the R33 and/or R34 ATTESSA controller is able to be swapped into the R32?

Hi Elithrar;

Did some more research today. Seems that the actuator is electronic in the 33/34 rather than hydraulic as in the 32. A conversion would seem to be of the 'nightmare' variety and is rapidly looking to be a no-no unfortunately.

The only option seems to be the HKS ETC, which I understand is discontinued, and there appear to be very few people using them so not much user info exists.

Cheers

Ken;

Thanks for the feedback on the ETC. Gotcha on the clutch packs, I take it that you wouldn't recommend using one on a daily driven car?

Regards,  

Mark

Mark , there is an off position which returns it to normal and I have( had ) one in my old R which I used if it look likr things were going to get *spirited* in the traction/conering department.

Only thing you have to watch is if it is set high and you turn it on, it may bring up the 4wd light which means you then have to stop the car, turn it off and bring the setting up slowly.

They work well and set with a heavy rear bias can give predictable drif.... err , fun.

Cheers

Ken

There is also some DIY type controller that i was reading about in some online AutoSpeed article. From the author, he was apparently amazed at how much faster he could push the R (32 as well). He had quite a few different settings, i think a scale from 1 - 10. I can't remember whether 1 was super dry conditions, or 10 was.

I couldn't quite follow the theory behind the little thing he set up but i think the HKS system may have been mentioned. I'll try and find the article for ya.

found it, http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0060/article.html

i think the owner could have just changed the suspenion a bit as well if he wasn't happy. Judging from the pic, looks like he wanted to go four wheel driving.

ok i just read it, he did change some suspension items. I was just looking at the first pic :)

anyways, i hope you could follow the explanation. It seems to be what you wanted, and it sounds awesome. If i ever get an 'R' i might have to give it a try. I very, VERY much like the idea of being able to change the settings of the torque split for wet or dry conditions. Great idea. Altho i know very, very little about how ATTESSA works or suspension for that matter.

anyways, i think the guy didn't realise that GT-R's from the factory always had had the oversteer character. I guess that's just the way Nissan wants them or makes them. Well that's what i've always heard.

hope the article helps.

cheers.

I've driven a stocker and an autospeed controller car back to back (it was on 6/10) and the difference was amazing....not bad for about $20.

Hi Duncan;

That's interesting, I always knew that someone other than Julian Edgar must've built and/or used one. The understanding I gained from reading the article is that, as you say, the difference is amazing. I'll proably go down the route of trying to build one myself as the money for the HKS unit seems way too high given the content, although it has plug n play convenience on its side.

Assuming that the car you drove wasn't Julian's own car, do you know who built the unit and if they're a SAU member?

Regards

Mark

Interesting, I was just toying with this idea today. So the only really "upgrade" you can do for the R32 is to a V-spec R32 controller? Anything else required besides the controller itself?

I was hoping this was the case so I could just swap in an R33 or R34 controller but apparently the means of actuation on the R33/34 is electronic rather than hydraulic, so unfortunately a straight swap doesn't seem possible.

Can anyone with a 33/34 confirm this?

Regards

Yep, they are on the forums, try pming HAW001. The difference was hge, although I havent driven a car with the HKS controller to compare to. Cost would be under $50, or bugger all if you can follow the instructions on autospeed yourself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...