Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No! Bad Nankangs! :domokun:

Had them on my N14 SSS, previous owner put them on. Would never, ever recommend them to my worst enemy!

Did I mention... No! Bad Nankangs! :domokun:

well to my worst enemy i might lol

No! Bad Nankangs! :domokun:

Had them on my N14 SSS, previous owner put them on. Would never, ever recommend them to my worst enemy!

Did I mention... No! Bad Nankangs! :domokun:

Nankangs FTW....they don't wear out!.....probably because they are made of a harder compound than the road they roll on!

I totally agree they are one of the worst tyres for grip that you can buy new......but sometimes that can be a good thing!ninja.gif--------> heads to youtube for another laugh of the stall and launch!

Nankangs FTW....they don't wear out!.....probably because they are made of a harder compound than the road they roll on!

I totally agree they are one of the worst tyres for grip that you can buy new......but sometimes that can be a good thing!ninja.gif--------> heads to youtube for another laugh of the stall and launch!

I went to a trade show recently; showcasing all kinds of new automotive technology; You're all piling shit on them, but you should see the new offerings from Nanakang!

This is their new Off Road tyre; post-61153-0-69818000-1309475170_thumb.jpg

And their new Performance offering; post-61153-0-83736800-1309475227_thumb.jpg

I went to a trade show recently; showcasing all kinds of new automotive technology; You're all piling shit on them, but you should see the new offerings from Nanakang!

This is their new Off Road tyre; post-61153-0-69818000-1309475170_thumb.jpg

And their new Performance offering; post-61153-0-83736800-1309475227_thumb.jpg

hahahahahaha

Nankangs FTW....they don't wear out!.....probably because they are made of a harder compound than the road they roll on!

I totally agree they are one of the worst tyres for grip that you can buy new......but sometimes that can be a good thing!ninja.gif--------> heads to youtube for another laugh of the stall and launch!

Agree.

I am just about to replace my set for the first time... that originally came with the car!

Yes, that was 140,000kms ago lol

Agree.

I am just about to replace my set for the first time... that originally came with the car!

Yes, that was 140,000kms ago lol

You can't complain about value for money with that distance travelled, amazing! I'd put up with lower grip levels if i was to get anywhere near that wear out of a set.

My Toyos have worn the insides at the back as well. Had 2 wheel alignments in 10000km. Might be time to get a 2nd opinion

ive had my car 2 years, same rubber since i put the 18s on, the inside rear has NOT worn out and its been aligned only once since i got it. and that was after the coilovers were installed.

You can't complain about value for money with that distance travelled, amazing! I'd put up with lower grip levels if i was to get anywhere near that wear out of a set.

My Toyos have worn the insides at the back as well. Had 2 wheel alignments in 10000km. Might be time to get a 2nd opinion

I should not that the Nankangs + stock 17's were not on the car for ~30,000 of those kms.

Still, over 100,000kms from a set of tyres...

Still, over 100,000kms from a set of tyres...

I would be ecstatic if I got half that distance on a set. Didn't think it was possible actually.

I need to buy tyres in the next few weeks & you've convinced me to ask around for someone who knows how to align a M35 properly.:thanks:

  • 10 months later...

I could send you my last alignment results but they might not mean anything unless your car was exactly the same setup as mine (height wise etc).

Coincidentally I took my car in for a 5000km tyre checkup today (I was expecting another alignment & rotation) but was told to leave it another 5000km as there wasn't enough signs of wear to warrant any changes.

I could send you my last alignment results but they might not mean anything unless your car was exactly the same setup as mine (height wise etc).

Coincidentally I took my car in for a 5000km tyre checkup today (I was expecting another alignment & rotation) but was told to leave it another 5000km as there wasn't enough signs of wear to warrant any changes.

Leon, the amount of toe & camber from your alignment will be applicable, regardless of differing ride heights.

Throw the specs on if you can, if you're not scrubbing the soft Invo's; it must be on the money.

Leon, the amount of toe & camber from your alignment will be applicable, regardless of differing ride heights.

Throw the specs on if you can, if you're not scrubbing the soft Invo's; it must be on the money.

Leon, you have the toe and camber bolts though, right?

So may not be completely useful?

Good news. Still liking the Nittos?

Yeah Ryan, they impress me in different ways nearly every time I go out. Torrential rain today & it was like driving an 'ordinary' car in the dry. Wear rate could be the one thing that fails, but I won't know for a while yet.

Leon, the amount of toe & camber from your alignment will be applicable, regardless of differing ride heights.

Throw the specs on if you can, if you're not scrubbing the soft Invo's; it must be on the money.

I didn't think that would be the case, but I'll believe you. Suspension is still smoke & mirrors to me, lol.

Current FRONT specs:

Toe-in: LH 0.5mm, RH 0.5mm Total toe-in 1.0mm

Camber: LH -1.8 deg, RH -2.3 deg*

Castor: LH 6 deg, RH 7 deg

Current REAR specs:

Toe-in: LH 1.0 deg, RH 1.0 deg

Camber: LH -1.8 deg, RH -1.8 deg

* The RH camber is a potential problem. Pretty sure the Superpro upper camber kit (from Ryan's GB) will be used to reduce that figure by 0.5 deg.

I'll try to update this as my alignment guy feels his way. I've been to 2 or 3 other shops in town with no joy & at least this guy is prepared to follow through until he gets it right.

BTW, in reference to earlier posts in this thread, I also run my tyres at 40+psi.

Edited by Commsman

I got mine aligned the other day too.

Rear

Camber Left -1.04'

Right -1.00'

Total toe +1.8mm

Geometrical driving axis +0.05'

Front

Camber left -0.27'

Camber right -0.31'

Individual toe left +0.8mm

Individual toe right +0.7mm

Total toe 1.5mm

Castor left +6.32'

Castor right +6.32'

The wheel aligner said I should get the left castor on the front up to 7.0' to stop a bit of pull to the left.

  • 4 months later...

It makes me crazy /laugh when I read the first comment on this thread! So many tyre places and so called alignment guys are full of crap. Tyre guys give uneducated opinions based on NOTHING. just personal opinion. The front and rear are FULLY ADJUSTABLE so you can set them up perfectly for "australian"roads.

I have an educated opinion at least (15 years as tech engineer for Bridgestone and an engineering qualification) and we know our cars. Firstly if you can find the specs, use them. SOme vehcicles are a little different due to design (eg 350Z need more toe in because they have toe out issue under braking) or F/R balance - some FWD run more rear neg camber to give rear bite... but as a general rule: Set them up to suit your dirving needs and roads. eg i drive flat freeway but still want a bit of neg camber for cornering - so half to 1 degree of neg camber, put a bit of toe in for movement of bushes, under braking and wear (1mm measured on the right tyre /wheel diameter).

Re tyre pressures, if you are running 45 series or lower put 40 psi because they are easily damaged if they get a little underinflated. esp if they are subject to excessive camber. the lower the aspect ratio - the more pressure for safety (up to 45). I run 38 in my 50 series, I would not go under 34.

Re tyre wear, how long is a bit of string? depends on alignment and driving. I will get at least 45000 out of mine because I do a lot of freeway. You get what you pay for with tyres. Nankangs and wanlis etc just dont have the balance of grip and wear and are really bad at recovery (slalom). I remember testing wanlis on a reps HSV. I nearly lost the rear end by the 3rd cone and had to abort at 70km/h whereas Bridgestones did 80km/h and just kept going where I pointed them - no snap oversteer no wash - just grip.

But if you like power oversteer coming on easily, and dont mind fighting for your life dodging a kangaroo or animal when the tyre wont recover, go for the wanlis!

i took my car to pedders for a check up about a month ago i thought the inside rear edges were wearing because i have -2 degrees of camber but the guy reakoned it shouldnt wear like that and that my rear front X'member bushes were flogged.

but ive gotten over a years worth out of them and i think about 25,000km so im not complaining really.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AFM looks to be a z32 The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc The turbo tag when looked up seems to be a gt2871 , imagine it would have the bigger rear housing .82 all look like the mid 00's mods when he started building it up. Vac hose seems right but would need to see a diagram. Great work going up there and sorting it out, be a good club car for someone wanting a good reliable rig.  I know I would like to have it but no space and too many other race cars at the moment.
    • Heys guys I got a r32 gtst speedo is out by 10kph seems the faster I go the more it be out  just seeing if anyone else had to problem and knows how to fix it 
    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
×
×
  • Create New...