Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtx3076R Vrs Gt3076R.. A True Comparison.

Simon-S14

By Simon-S14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

When i read that is assumed that they made the changes to make sure that the RPM signal was correct so the graph was displayed correctly, not that they adjusted the ramp rate by 5.7% to make up for the change of ramp rate that the engine sees. But after re reading it i'm not sure?

Even if not the 5.7% difference in load could not be enough to shift the graph 500rpm, I think the differential ratio is a setting you enter in though. 500rpm is the difference in doing a short run say eg 1st/2nd gear equivalent ramp rate vs 4th gear.

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

Sorry for the slightly OT question but somebody asked this earlier in this thread and I couldn't find the answer... is the GTX3076R available in an internall gated option, and could it even possibly be made to fit a stock manifold and 6-bolt nissan dump? I don't know if there's an exhaust housing for that. What about fitting it into an OP6 housing? :S Sorry if this has been asked a thousand times already... I did search a bit!

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

turbine side is exactly the same as the normal 3076 so yes theres plenty of turbine housing options including internal and a 6 bolt (although its not very good). however i wouldnt bother getting a gtx3076 if your using the standard manifold and internal gate as a this will become a major restriction before you max out a normal gt3076, let alone a gtx3076

Dajae Community Regular

Dajae

Posted
Posted

My normal gt3076r hits 18psi at about 3200-3300 rpm. Probably won't be upgrading to the gtx. Unless it's a gtx35

What gear is that in? And is that dyno, or real driving experience? Just curious because thats quite a quick spool for 3076 from what I know..

I think if every last rpm of response is a necessity, and money isnt really an issue, then sure... Any of the GTX variants would be awesome. Some of the results the Evo guys are getting over there in the USA are quite impressive; and thats on 95!

But otherwise the comparable 'standard' GT turbos will suit any purpose just as well.

Awesome results though; I personally expected the GTX to be a little more impressive. Especially considering the hype that it received.. But, somehow, I can't justify spending the extra cash on a turbo which isn't really that much more..... better. A larger GTX perhaps. :thumbsup:

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

And also for comparison I ran my brother (on the track of course) same setup pretty much exept his is GTX. Mine still spools up faster.

Mind you I only have my exhaust manifold ported. So no major exhaust flow modd

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

4th gear on dyno. Second gear on street I hit 18psi below 3500

So you have an RB30 or RB28? Or are using Nitrous?

2nd gear 18psi below 3500rpm is HKS 2530 territory on an RB25.

Edited by simpletool
krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

So you have an RB30 or RB28? Or are using Nitrous?

2nd gear 18psi below 3500rpm is HKS 2530 territory on an RB25.

I honestly don't know what the go with it is too. All I have is a unopened rb25 with cam gears and ported exhaust manifold. Most people say it's impossible but I'm not sure what the go is. Just found my autosalon dyno sheet. But boost controller was on the wrong setting and wasn't hitting 18psi till 5000rpm which was gay lol

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

You won't be able to read it. Because it's in speed. And I had different diff ratios to stock.

there is a formula to convert speed to RPM and vice versa... diff ratio can be callibrated on the dyno but i dont know if matty would have done that...

post anyway man :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rezz
      OEM Soko: Japanese business supplying Automotive items from Japan - Freebie inside!

      By Rezz · Posted

      We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • MidnightR32
      RB20DET lean on cold start

      By MidnightR32 · Posted

      Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DET lean on cold start

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • MidnightR32
      RB20DET lean on cold start

      By MidnightR32 · Posted

      Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • A31Skyline
      Rb20e and RB20DET parts

      By A31Skyline · Posted

      yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
×
×
  • Create New...