Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

350-400kms on 3/4 of a tank isn't that bad. 3/4 of a tank is ~60L, that's 15-17L/100Km, which is what I get when I behave :ninja:

I can get mine down to 12-14L/100 on a trip, but general city/highway average is 15-17L/100.

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

350-400kms on 3/4 of a tank isn't that bad. 3/4 of a tank is ~60L, that's 15-17L/100Km, which is what I get when I behave :ninja:

That neglects to take into account that when your guage hits the lower line it isnt empty :P

But yeah, if the CEL is on - and you've read the codes off and it says O2 sensor.. a) check its plugged in, b) replace it :P

350-400kms on 3/4 of a tank isn't that bad. 3/4 of a tank is ~60L, that's 15-17L/100Km, which is what I get when I behave :ninja:

I can get mine down to 12-14L/100 on a trip, but general city/highway average is 15-17L/100.

Not accurate there Ryan.

Set your trip when you fill up, then next fill take note of how many litres the tank takes to fill.

kms travelled / litres to fill = km per L

Then divide 100 by that figure to work out your L/100kms usage :)

EDIT - yes, I know... :geek:

Edited by iamhe77

alright, got myself a set of BC racing type BR coilovers...gonna do installation myself with a help from a mate this weekend (if i get lucky when no one calls from work)...i can work out how to take off the fronts, but how to take off the rears? i mean how to access to the top part of the rear suspension which is covered by the interior...

tried searching on SAU for any DIY on this, couldn't find any (maybe i didn't search hard enough?)...any links or pics would be a great help...thanks guys!

alright, got myself a set of BC racing type BR coilovers...gonna do installation myself with a help from a mate this weekend (if i get lucky when no one calls from work)...i can work out how to take off the fronts, but how to take off the rears? i mean how to access to the top part of the rear suspension which is covered by the interior...

tried searching on SAU for any DIY on this, couldn't find any (maybe i didn't search hard enough?)...any links or pics would be a great help...thanks guys!

Easy!

Remove wheel, follow shock to mounting point on chassis rail, undo 2x M10 bolts (13mm hex, I think). Easy!

Unless the design of the BC top rear shock mount has changed; you will ned to re-use the pressed steel OEM top mount (The cup shaped bit that bolts to the chassis). The BC rubber bushes and crush tube fit perfectly into the OEM mount, so WD40 the shock thread, and remove the M12 nut (17mm socket) you might need to lightly clamp the shock in a vice to stop it turning.

Only takes a couple of minutes each to change, and you're on your way. I recommend running the shock at it's shortest extension rather than OEM length. Wind it all the way into the bottom clevis until it binds, then a full turn out If you lock it up with the bottom clevis bottomed out, over time it may lock in the thread and be impossible to disassemble later on. Lock the tapered collar and you're good. Also the bottom clevis is slightly too wide IMO, I used a 1.5mm thick M12 (or 1/2") washer to take up the gap as the clevis will have to crush miles too far otherwise. You could easily machine some small spacers if you have access to a lathe, but washers worked fine.

To remove the STD rear spring it is easier to undo the inner mount for the lower arm (one with the spring seat) and lower the whole arm supported with a jack. Mark the eccentric bolt on the lower arm before removal. You'll be aligning once you're done; but at least you're no worse off. The STD spring is very long and you won't be able to swing the arm far enough down to remove the spring from the seat.

If you like; I can PM you some base height measurements and some pics of my ride height as a starting point for adjustment. I'm at work at the moment, but I'll do it tomorrow morning.

Edited by Daleo

thanks for that dale, really appreciate it...

gonna jack up the car on the weekend to have a look what's below...fingers crossed it's not raining in melbourne on saturday, can't work in a garage with 2 bloody wagons and lots of stuff around lol

Easy!

Remove wheel, follow shock to mounting point on chassis rail, undo 2x M10 bolts (13mm hex, I think). Easy!

Unless the design of the BC top rear shock mount has changed; you will ned to re-use the pressed steel OEM top mount (The cup shaped bit that bolts to the chassis). The BC rubber bushes and crush tube fit perfectly into the OEM mount, so WD40 the shock thread, and remove the M12 nut (17mm socket) you might need to lightly clamp the shock in a vice to stop it turning.

Only takes a couple of minutes each to change, and you're on your way. I recommend running the shock at it's shortest extension rather than OEM length. Wind it all the way into the bottom clevis until it binds, then a full turn out If you lock it up with the bottom clevis bottomed out, over time it may lock in the thread and be impossible to disassemble later on. Lock the tapered collar and you're good. Also the bottom clevis is slightly too wide IMO, I used a 1.5mm thick M12 (or 1/2") washer to take up the gap as the clevis will have to crush miles too far otherwise. You could easily machine some small spacers if you have access to a lathe, but washers worked fine.

To remove the STD rear spring it is easier to undo the inner mount for the lower arm (one with the spring seat) and lower the whole arm supported with a jack. Mark the eccentric bolt on the lower arm before removal. You'll be aligning once you're done; but at least you're no worse off. The STD spring is very long and you won't be able to swing the arm far enough down to remove the spring from the seat.

If you like; I can PM you some base height measurements and some pics of my ride height as a starting point for adjustment. I'm at work at the moment, but I'll do it tomorrow morning.

+1 please :)

hey guys,

i need help as i'm still clueless on what's going on...

the car has ECL on a few weeks ago, checked the codes manually, came as 1111, 1110 and 1135...i checked against the list of ECU error codes, nothing of that kind, searched online and came up as ECL code for Navara which points into the intake side (all 3 of them)...i asked the workshop that i normally go to and when they checked out the code using OBD scanner, same codes came out and i was told that the O2 sensor is busted...

now i just got the O2 sensor replaced yesterday and today the codes came up again, same ones as above...

anyone has an idea on what i need to look at? need help asap as i'm scared of driving with ECL on all times...

111 = Intake air temp circuit range/performance problem - Try cleaning the AFM

110 = IAT Circuit Malfunction - Lost on this.....maybe a bad air filter

135 = O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunction - Try unplugging this......see if there is any difference on how the car runs

Other than that without seeing the car i cannot help you.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys,

noob question, how to take the gear handle apart? cos i've been driving manual so can't really figure out how to take auto gear handle...need to replace the light for passenger seat heater switch...

hey guys,

noob question, how to take the gear handle apart? cos i've been driving manual so can't really figure out how to take auto gear handle...need to replace the light for passenger seat heater switch...

Push down the silver ring around the bottom of the knob with a flat blade screwdriver; flick out the spring clip around the bottom of the knob, lift off.:thumbsup:

hey guys,

noob question, how to take the gear handle apart? cos i've been driving manual so can't really figure out how to take auto gear handle...need to replace the light for passenger seat heater switch...

This is for the whole dash assembley for a G35 Infiniti (V35 Skyline) but the first few steps shows you how with diagrams.

http://documents.victorytechnologies.com//documents/product/9438.pdf

or this one:

http://www.sound-repair.com/index.php/infiniti-g35-03-05-stereo-removal-instructions/

Edited by prince_skyline

anyone with M35 has bought any reinforcement braces (not sway bars)? if yes, do they actually improve handling or at the least work as it's supposed to?

something like this: http://www.oxmotorsports.co.jp/7.html?

damn expensive pinch.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
    • I don't even know that you want an M2 Competition as a track car. My rule for a track car is only risk as much as you're willing to completely total out. Clean stock C5 Z06 Corvettes out here are cheap. Buying someone else's already ruined track car is even cheaper. Maybe I'm just not that good a driver but even a Fiesta ST on the Nordschleife felt like as much car as I could realistically handle.
×
×
  • Create New...