Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep I agree with Dale. Go with a 245/45-18 as I did, they are the same size as VE commy factory wheels so price and choice is pretty good.

They also help to fill the guards better than a 40 series unless you excessively lower your car to do so but then you run into other problems.

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

What's the prob Syd? You got the bulb out, right? Is it a weird one with no direct aftermarket replacement? Pic?

I don't have those switches otherwise I'd have already pulled mine out & sent it to you :)

Edited by Commsman
  • 2 months later...

just did a minor service this morning and found out that the inner CV boot has been split...anyone know part number for the boot? my mechanic suggested to use the universal boot but he's not sure what size is needed...help please, thanks!

just did a minor service this morning and found out that the inner CV boot has been split...anyone know part number for the boot? my mechanic suggested to use the universal boot but he's not sure what size is needed...help please, thanks!

Syd, this will become more common with time, our cars are at that age.

I did a driver's side inner a month ago, I'd suggest tracking down as genuine boot; my CV guy reckoned they're better than the universal boots.

  • 2 years later...

Hey all

just like to say brilliant information you guys have all dug up on m35s for the past few years

Have been reading these forums for quite some time but have a few questions in regards to my project

03 vq25det, 170k on clock. has hdi kit, bc golds and 18x9.5 wolfs 245/45/18s.

Scottys dump on its way and dales suction pipe on its way also, followed by cat back and hks fcon ( i have the harness already-score!) ss1 turbo injectors etc.

1. once the intake pipe and dump are put on will i be having issues with injectors? i dont want to run lean and blow engines

2. what is the best way to give these a boost leak test? after doing fmic and some vac hoses my boost gauge only reads half bar when it used to boost to just shy of one.. i dont want to upset the throttle body etc so info would be marvelous

3. hks fcon. do i have to buy one with a base tune installed or can my hks dealer reprog a 2nd hand one for me? im in NZ and suichi from ST Hi Tec will be doing the tune as he has done reprieves m35 previously.

Not looking for crazy kws but a nice street tune that will leave 20/25 det owners scratching their heads. say around 250atw

thanks a bunch. i think its great stagea owners out their have shared their knowledge its been so helpfull thus far. Zach

1. No, the stock ecu will protect the engine pretty well, it will just throw you through the windscreen if you boost it too hard.

2. Make a bung for the intake and pump 25psi into it. See if it holds air, you should be able to hear any leaks, or use soapy water to find them. Sounds like you may have mucked around with the boost bleed setup, did you replace the hoses to the boost solenoid? There is a restrictor in one...

3. Your dealer should be able to source a base map if he deals with HKS, otherwise you will need a later model Fcon Vpro which has the base map loaded. Have a search, the info is here somewhere. Speak to your tuner about it too.

That power target seems achievable on the SS1 highflow turbo, I guess you don't have access to e85 over there?

Thanks for that, i had replaced the vac hose with the restrictor in it but changed it back shortly after, gauge started reading a little better once i did, but this is what leads me to think it may be a boost leak... or just dodge boost gauge in general.

For a bung in the intake could i remove the bleed hose on the bov pipe (not the boost sensor one) and block it off and dump 25psi down the nipple ( with tight commections etc

obviously)

We can get e85 over here but not at any pump, just by the barrel

Speak to Soichi about the F-Con. He has good contacts with HKS and can get them re-programmed prior to tuning... but get him to confirm a unit is suitable before you buy.

There's a couple on US eBay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...