Jump to content
SAU Community

Bov Defect Question

skylinesandman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Vl3lt Rookie

Vl3lt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Do you have a afm?

I had an r32 with no afm was fine without a bov

But the last r32 I had stalled constantly when I blocked off the bov so I unblocked it

Was your afm before the turbo? Pretty common problem for cars to stall when the afm is before the turbo, u can fix it by putting the afm in cooler pipes

.

Edited by Vl3lt
skylinesandman Enthusiast

skylinesandman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol nar were mates yeah i dont know anyone thats car stalls from havin the bov blocked

and my stock turbo remark means i could careless bout it got a garrett t4 waitin to go in

if i had a decent bov like a stealth or something which im plannin to steal outta my sisters car

then i would run one but other than that they all sound shit

come to newy everyone doses lol

  • 2 weeks later...
045HOW Mentor

045HOW

Posted
Posted

afaik: vent to atmo blowoff f**ks with the afm readings because you are expelling air that it doesnt know is gone. swear i noticed better fuel consumption and better gear changes with recirc and dose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • Komdotkom
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
×
×
  • Create New...