Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Parts R32 - Heaps Of Good A/m Parts Available Vic


Recommended Posts

Don't want to do this but the car has sat in the shed for 2 years now and never gets driven anymore. Tough call but I've decided to start parting it. The car still has many of the parts still fitted to it and will be removed over the next few weeks. Also please don't get upset if pm's take a few days to be answered.

Pair -5 turbos $1500

Set of Michelin Pilot Slicks 18inch (about 265 wide. Need to check) $400 Lots of rubber left.

V8 supercar wing carbon fibre with machined harrop struts - White - Ex Kmart racing VT - It works - Dinted the back of my boot in at Phillip Island $600

Power FC and hand controller with tune to suit the -5's with std inj/afm $850

Set of centre gauges from R32 $50

HKS VPC. Comes with everything req'd. Use this to remove your AFM's on your gtr and still run std or pfc ecu. Allows control of fuel mixtures to make your car run safe AFR's. Uses its own Map sensor and inlet temp sensor plus all std motor sensors. $250

Set of front guard liners and front under tray. Has factory front brake ducts and I won't seperate. $150 Getting very rare!

R32 3inch exhaust with seperate de-cat pipe. Has centre muffler, no rear muffler, just straight throught to back $100

R32 GTR body fuel cap/flap missing hinge $FREE

R32 GTR G-Sensor $100

R32 GTR rear diff with 1.5 or 2 way. Need to remove it and see brand and type. Its very tight $650

OS Giken sprung centre triple plate. Was about 80% about last look. Prob only travelled 2000k since with 2 trackdays since $1750 Awesome clutch! Push type.

Full suspension setup consisting of custom valved shocks out of SK production car with adj height treaded sleeves. Springs 7kgmm and 5kgmm. Whiteline swaybars. Cusco upper arms front 3.5deg and rear adj. Tein front adj castor rods. This setup gives more confidence than you could ever imagine in a R32 GTR at the track or on the street. $2200

New R/H sill panel $100 Suit GTR/GTST

R32 R/H tail light $FREE

Pair Volk Circlar rims 18x9.5 +38mm offest. $300. These sell for around 1500-2000 set.

R32 R/H mirror $25

R33 GTR lowered rear springs for std style shocks. Sits very nice $25

R32 GTR in STI blue with 88mm HKS forged pistons, Cam gears, button clutch, chipped ecu, 100mm FMIC, new 324mm rotors and braided lines all round, Caliper spacers, new rear slotted rotors, rebuilt calipers all round, smooth g/box and tight transfer case, 320kmh Nismo speedo, Cusco strut braces, lipped out rear guards, 3.5 inch exhaust plus more. Complied and previously registered with no defects. Perfect start to a quick daily or start of track car. $13000neg

Melbourne 40 min south of city or can meet at Moorabbin Airport duding work hours. Happy to post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
    • And over it. Need to stop it coming through the floor.
    • Is it running the standard ECU? some sort of data log might help understand where timing, AFRs etc are at.  If it is standard ECU something like Nissan Datascan would help
×
×
  • Create New...