Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a damaged M35 headlight, its not usable.

however, as only the mounting points are broken and the shell cracked, its a good practice for anyone who wants to open their headlights and spray it black.

this will give you the chance to open one up without damaging your 2 good ones.

it will be the shell only, the loom, plug, lights, ballast and HID burner will NOT be supplied.

anyway, pickup only in sydney.

Which side, is the lens ok? My passenger side one is starting to crack and I wouldn't mind painting them too. I will take it.

I also shagged a wheel bearing on the dyno last night, perhaps it finally failed with all the load and pull down straps? I hear you may have a spare still mate?

i do have a spare, but gotta hang onto it for about a week or so longer

You mean the bearing? I will just buy a new one then, its making some pretty weird noises and the steering doesn't feel good. I will see if JustJap have any in stock.

Hey did the aero front bar get totalled completely? What happened to the foggie surrouds?

Sadly, this car had the blanking plates like your car, and anyway they were destroyed along with the bar in the accident. If they were still available, I'd already have them; I asked Iain exactly the same question months ago...

You mean the bearing? I will just buy a new one then, its making some pretty weird noises and the steering doesn't feel good. I will see if JustJap have any in stock.

yes they do, they had 2 in stock but i bought 1 already for my car...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
    • I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:  
    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
×
×
  • Create New...