Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi i recently bought a Series 1 R33 skyline and for some reason the middle vents in the dash do not push out any air yet the side ones next to steering wheel and passenger sides work Its just the 2 above the climate control and cd player.

Where do i trace to find out if the hose is not plugged in? Would i need to strip out the dash or?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/
Share on other sites

Somewhere around here is a tutorial or 2 about taking apart your dash, those might be a good place if you do need to dig deeper.

Otherwise, first check is to take off the vents themselves and have a look if there is anything obvious blocking it. The dash piece is one huge piece that goes from just above your ash tray, up around your climate control then across your cluster to the other side of your steering wheel. It can be rather annoying to take off some times, but again, find a tutorial and it will help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5902788
Share on other sites

yep. so basically keep digging deeper into the system till you find the cause.

Id say it has something to do with the electric system that swaps the blowers from body to feet etc. Often these systems get the skyline 'click click' going on which is the gearing wearing out but it sounds like yours has gone to the next level...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5908063
Share on other sites

I guess ill take it down to a mechanics because i almost snapped the main dash piece fiddling around trying to work out the vents haha.

but yea the sides and feet seem to work fine so i have no idea. >_<

Could it be the Climate Control system? because the off and auto buttons were broken so i ripped it out when i was checking the vents and just shoved some nailed in the holes for the time being until i buy a new unit.

Made no difference with the centre vents though.

Also the car only has 80,000km's so it surely couldn't have worn out after that long?

Edited by corpse.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5908843
Share on other sites

those buttons are actually really easy to fix (did it on mine).

otherwise its impossible to say how long those cogs/buttons will last. Tho if your buttons are already mashed then that a good indication on how much work the vent cogs have had...

good luck on the cost and 'soft hand' a mechanic will use on it. Id say keep at it yourself... also search through the maintenence section as im sure this has happened to somebody else before...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5913832
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the vents all open up from a unit in the middle of the dash just above the floor. All the pipes come from there. Whilst you're sorting out why they don't wok it might also make sense to grab some sticky backeed foam stuff to replace any seals that may have perished over time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5922387
Share on other sites

ok bit of an update. bought a new climate control unit, didnt fix this pulsing sound.

ran the diagnostics test and came up with no error codes?

i can turn off the whole climate control system and when the cars running the noise is still there? The noise just doesn't go away no matter how long to drive lol.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5934285
Share on other sites

yeah mate it is likely to be this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/206019-annoying-clicking-noise/page__hl__Aircon+clicking

years ago when i had a 33 that did this i was looking at getting in there and fixing it and found another tutorial on how to get to that servo motor that causes the clicking/pulsing without taking the dash-pad off but im not going to spend 30mins searching for it- thats your job. I remember the tutorial had a step by step guide on how to DIY fix-it with pictures with it too. You'll know the one when you find it cos the guy stabbed himself in the finger with a screwdriver in the job and had to get stitches (photo for that too) so youll know the one when you find it.

good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5935556
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Its part of the internal air temp sensor. I know with the sensor unplugged, you will get hot air from the A/C on anything but 18 Degrees. This is because it doesnt know the internal temperature and cant adjust to suit.

make sure the hose and plug are connected to there counterparts on the dash panel that you have pulled off atm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5987620
Share on other sites

i think it has to do with the heater not blowing heat. that can wait since summers coming haha.

in diagnostics mode u can hear the vent trying to open but it just doesnt want to open.... is there any way i can forcefully open the middle vents without having to rip open the whole dash?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-5991687
Share on other sites

  • 13 years later...

I know its been 13 years since this topic, but it came up when i was searching to fix my problem so thought i would add my 2cents in and how i fixed my issue. 

my r33 had air coming out off all the vents except the center one. i went straight down the rabbit hole expecting it to be a mechanical issue, pulled the dash apart tracing lines, checking linkages etc. it turned out the very fine fly screen mesh behind the center vent was actually VERY blocked so when i had the air on face the air would take the path of least resistance and come out the 2 side vents but allow nothing out the center vent.

a quick clean fixed the issue. once the mesh is clean you can see the air direction flaps moving inside through the mesh. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369987-r33-dash-vents/#findComment-7993170
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...