Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Definitely need to know what turbo youve got before you can select a housing. You may find replacing the housing will fall short in benefit to replacing the whole turbo.

Can you please state what your aim of changing the housing is so we can comment on a better solution if possible?

Also, not knowing your turbos actual spec gives me the impression it may be a cheaply made thing and you could be blowing hard earned dollars in the wrong way. There are many options around the $1k mark these days that will easily replace what you have and possibly exceed your aims for the change.. Chances are buying a garrett housing OR moddifying another one to suit your 'hybrid' turbo will cost similar money and wont necessarily hold the gains you seek.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370081-rear-housing/#findComment-5900241
Share on other sites

And inducer/exducer refer to the smallest and largest diameters of the wheel in question respectively. Irrespective of compressor or turbine.

Just to clarify.

you sure bout that? isnt the inducer the diameter that draws the air/gas in and exducer the diameter that expels the air/gas?? so the 60mm being talked about is the turbine inducer diameter isnt it??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370081-rear-housing/#findComment-5900264
Share on other sites

Nag its not a cheap setup the previous owner spent 3500 on getting the turbo custom made buy a bloke here reason I'm changing is cause it was on an Sr20 and its now going on a 26/30 so going a bigger rear and also I have a twin scroll manifold so need a housing to suit that forgot to get turbo today so I will get it tomorrow and take some measurements

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370081-rear-housing/#findComment-5900558
Share on other sites

you sure bout that? isnt the inducer the diameter that draws the air/gas in and exducer the diameter that expels the air/gas?? so the 60mm being talked about is the turbine inducer diameter isnt it??

Yea thats how I have an understanding of it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370081-rear-housing/#findComment-5900563
Share on other sites

so took a better measurement before didnt have the right tool before was just going bye eye n a ruler lol

turns out i have a 66mm inducer and a 56mm exducer cant seem to find any info on the as to what rear housing to buy anyone got any ideas?

been having a look around and the garret t31 housing i have on there atm soom to suit gt30/gt35 and its definetly a bigger than 60mm wheel (gt30) so im guessing it has to be a housing to suit gt35?

Edited by t04z
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370081-rear-housing/#findComment-5905830
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...