Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I was told how R33 gts series two has things like abs, xenon headlights, basically just a tad upgraded from the series one, are any R34 gt's like this? probs a nub questions, but I am new dont forget :D

I dont know about abs in gts models but the only 33 that came with xenon was a series 3 GTR(or 4 door GTR) and afaik all 34s came with xenon headlights.

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yea, as everyone has already said, don't buy either for performance.

If you plan on modding it, focus on the braking and handling section, then later down the track drop RB25DET in or do a conversion :P.

That's what i plan to do :thumbsup:.

That's some dumb shit right there. should sell it to a p plater. Australia already has enough turbo skylines.

That's some dumb shit right there. should sell it to a p plater. Australia already has enough turbo skylines.

Each to their own.

Your not going to get close to the money already spent, so why not just throw another 1K on it and bolt a turbo on.

That's just my "plan" I might go a different path, it is after all 5 years from now until i get off my p's.

Edited by Converge

Each to their own.

Your not going to get close to the money already spent, so why not just throw another 1K on it and bolt a turbo on.

That's just my "plan" I might go a different path, it is after all 5 years from now until i get off my p's.

Please show me this 1k mastery you speak of.

You would have to upgrade the braking system to GTST brakes,and i dont believe that just means calipers.

You would want to upgrade your hubs to 5 stud instead of 4 stud. then you would need a turbo diff and possibly a different stronger tailshaft.then comes a gearbox,you would be needing a turbo gearbox to handle the power because n/a gearboxes are not the same box and are weak.and after all this,you can't just bolt a turbo onto an n/a.you need new fuel pump,injectors,manifold,turbo,gaskets,ecu,intercooler,piping,new holes to be cut in the body for intercooler piping,bov,lower the compression and there ain't no guarantee of how long the setup would last.and after getting it all done and f**kin around,you have to get it engineered and modplated which can be a massive f**k around.

Or you sell an n/a for way more than its worth because of these laws to a kid that would like to drive a skylines on their P's and you buy a GTST/GTS25T/GT-T for less or as Much money as you sold the NA for and lo and behold it already has all the turbo gear already in it with nothing missing,no engine to take apart and no certificates and modplates to procure.

Hope this helps to the enth degree.

Edited by Blueone

HMMMMMM...... Now I am also thinking about a supra :D that is also one of my favorite cars haha. The Skylines and supras are my favorite cars of all time. is it hard to find a non turbo supra? if so, how much would you be looking to spend one a good quality one? there are 6cyl 3.0L non turbo ones yeah?

I'm definitely aiming for an R34 GT-T or better.

I'm not off my P's currently but I'm in the last 6 months of my green phase at least.

Supras tend to be a rare sight for me in WA.. especially ones with p plates on them.

See the odd skylines with p plates as well.

I was driving a done up lancer during my green P's and when I got to the last 4 months I bought a 240rwkw Silvia S13, honestly it's not like your gonna fail your opens test it's the easiest one of them all, in NSW anyway

I've owned my R34GTT with red P's for the last 4 months now and I'm loving every second of it. In the morning I wake up just to drive it to uni. During class, I watch the clock until I can drive it home.

It's a great car with plenty of power for a P plater. The NEO head gives pretty good fuel economy too, so young people like us can afford to fuel it. There's also enough room in the back to fit a couple more mates in every now and then, cause once you get a Skyline, everyone wants to ride with you. thumbsup.gif

I've got a mate with an '06 WRX STI and I can't really tell the difference between the two. The thing that stands out the most is that my car is limited to 180kph lol. Not to mention his was double the price.

Personally I've never drifted or smoked it up in my R34. Before I purchased it, like you, I had the intention to. But once I owned it I didn't want to damage my car because it had become my pride and joy. Not just a powerful toy to thrash about. Sometimes I think that it would have been better for me to get an AWD for my track racing.

But since the laws are a little more lenient here in WA, I'm not as confident on how an N/A would go. If you want a car to go all out on the track then have you considered a Honda Type R or VTEC? With P plate restrictions I reckon you're quite limited in terms of N/A performance cars. In my previous VTEC power to weight felt great and there was a nice little kick when the cams switched over. Shame that most of them only come in FWD besides the S2000 (and NSX but that's a little more costly of course!).

I dunno bout hondas, never really liked em too much sorry :( Still between a skyline and a supra now haha, my minds changed a million times in the last 4 days, so whos to know what I will be wanting in 5 or 6 months time :P But I do like the sound of 160-170kw NA supra with RWD, sounds awesome :D

I dunno bout hondas, never really liked em too much sorry :( Still between a skyline and a supra now haha, my minds changed a million times in the last 4 days, so whos to know what I will be wanting in 5 or 6 months time :P But I do like the sound of 160-170kw NA supra with RWD, sounds awesome :D

A real boatload of fun :)

Oh ye :D And actually, around where I live (Hornsby/ Asquith) I see millions of rexs, evos, skylines and falcondores, but I have only ever seeen 3 supras, and one wass out near turrumurra, so I reckon it wuldnt be too harmful to see another supra poppin around Hornsby :P

Oh ye :D And actually, around where I live (Hornsby/ Asquith) I see millions of rexs, evos, skylines and falcondores, but I have only ever seeen 3 supras, and one wass out near turrumurra, so I reckon it wuldnt be too harmful to see another supra poppin around Hornsby :P

Yeah but 2j sounds like the straight 6 version of a Hyundai with a cannon.

Although I have noticed that all, or most of the sz supras (the non turbo p plater friendly ones) that they are only 5 speed manual. What would the top speed be? and are there any real draw back, or any advantages to having a 5 spped manual over a 6 speed manual? cheers.

Please show me this 1k mastery you speak of.

You would have to upgrade the braking system to GTST brakes,and i dont believe that just means calipers.

You would want to upgrade your hubs to 5 stud instead of 4 stud. then you would need a turbo diff and possibly a different stronger tailshaft.then comes a gearbox,you would be needing a turbo gearbox to handle the power because n/a gearboxes are not the same box and are weak.and after all this,you can't just bolt a turbo onto an n/a.you need new fuel pump,injectors,manifold,turbo,gaskets,ecu,intercooler,piping,new holes to be cut in the body for intercooler piping,bov,lower the compression and there ain't no guarantee of how long the setup would last.and after getting it all done and f**kin around,you have to get it engineered and modplated which can be a massive f**k around.

Or you sell an n/a for way more than its worth because of these laws to a kid that would like to drive a skylines on their P's and you buy a GTST/GTS25T/GT-T for less or as Much money as you sold the NA for and lo and behold it already has all the turbo gear already in it with nothing missing,no engine to take apart and no certificates and modplates to procure.

Hope this helps to the enth degree.

I'm not going to even bother.

Try reading through this.

For the record, R34's have 5 studs already.

Edited by Converge

1. Mods on N/A cars are not worth the money : kW outcome

2. Only real power = engine mods

3. Engine mods are illegal (points back to point 2)

4. Engine mods are expensive (points back to point 1)

5. Even if a turbo was bolted on, max power with awesome mods won't be greater than 300kW at the wheels

6. Value of the car stays the same, if not decreases because of the mods

7. If an RB25DET was dropped in, brakes, suspension, gear-box, clutch, ECU...etc...would all need to be upgraded which defeats the purpose of "cheap turbo"

8. I'm running out of single digit numbers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...