Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

legnum lol.

now dont be like that. stock for stock the Legnum VR4 has a lot more punch than the Stagea.

its ok to be Nissan loyal, but the Legnum VR4 is still a damn fast wagon. And if it wasnt for the mega expensive servicing and parts... id definitely be looking to slide into one. Although compared to a M35, the old VR4 is starting to look a bit dated.

Edited by SU8TLE
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

ARX lol.

oh wait

yeh i know that but i think just for the price comparison of the two, you definitely get more out of a m35. i drove a legnum and wasnt impressed to be honest

yeah true. the one I had a spin of had the boost up'ed a few psi and larger FMIC, and on boost it drinks like a whale. but i think the AYC in the Legnum around some twisty's is where the Legnum really shines. EVO handling ftw.

But as a family car... the M35 Stagea is a better option. Thus, my interest. Im just also a big fan of the Legnum VR4, spent a bit of time over at OzVr4.

you'd be suprised at how the M35 handles with some coilovers and a set of sway bars.

honestly even i was suprised with just the BC's i installed.

from a floating boat to a speedboat?happy.gif

btw, what settings did u use for ur BCs aaron? how many clicks front and rear?

Edited by Sydsyd

now dont be like that. stock for stock the Legnum VR4 has a lot more punch than the Stagea.

its ok to be Nissan loyal, but the Legnum VR4 is still a damn fast wagon. And if it wasnt for the mega expensive servicing and parts... id definitely be looking to slide into one. Although compared to a M35, the old VR4 is starting to look a bit dated.

When I was looking for a replacement for my Mazda 3 I was looking at the Legnums too...the AYC was a big plus.

But the lack parts and servicing cost was too much to bear...

LOL...hater!

I guess alot of people said the same thing about airbags/abs/awd/tcs etc etc when these things were 1st put into cars...:whistling:

lol if your going off that the trend looks like it wouldve started as.

"a car is for a person that cant drive"

i dunno if the heights properly set. i could lift the fron1cm more or so.

fronts are 12 from hard and rears are 15. feels ok, the rears arent loosing so much traction now

damn, i set mine on 16s fronts and rearswhistling.gif

Oh man, don't get Iain started on ABS.

You'd might as well start talking oil/fluids with me!

hence why i said fair enough lol

damn, i set mine on 16s fronts and rearswhistling.gif

not that big of a difference. its only damper after all. plus its only bee just installed so the novelty affect is still there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok will do, I think I originally had 1 bolt off for the sway bar on when I took off the strut but will give this a ago. Thanks Duncan! My sway bar has play also when I move it around, hoping that's the source of my squeaking because I can't find anything wrong elsewhere
    • odd. I thought all the top race teams used them.
    • undo the sway bar link, put it on last. put a jack under the outer ball joint on the lower control arm to raise the hub and off you go
    • I don't know how this is even possible. I removed the strut to do some work (it came out fine, and keeping in mind that I didn't put things back in the same order, but did this on purpose because I was supposed to remove the strut originally instead I tried to remove other shit first which made things a head ache) but now the problem is that it won't go back in. The alignment between where the bolt hole for the strut is and the j arm where the strut slides onto is way off, about a 10cm difference or more. In order to make it fit I'd somehow need to push it up. I tried to compress it with a spring compressor and install it but the compressor was getting in the way and there was no working room. On the photo you can see the difference between the shock and the thread that it's supposed to go on. The only things I removed in total were - the top bolts for the j arm but I didn't remove the actual j arm - the 3 bolts that hold the plate for the brake lines - the sway bar link (this bolted on back fine) - the strut/shock absorber
    • LOL that sounds pretty conclusive! Yeah if it doesn't work on a tight nut, it doesn't work.
×
×
  • Create New...