Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just installed a JJR pro stealth intercooler and 100cpi cat on my 33 gtst. Car was running perfect before these mods but now when I put the foot down I boost up until about 4000rpm and then the car feels like it just looses oomph for the rest of the rev range.

It's not the most noticeable feeling (mostly for passengers) but I can definitely notice it's loosing power. I also don't know wether it's me but it also sounds like the car makes a different noise when I hit this spot in the rev range.

I have racked my brain trying to think off possibilities such as slipping clutch but the revs don't suddenly climb when I start to loose power. Coilpacks have recently been upgraded too as it was missfiring bad around this spot in the revs previously so I don't think it is the coilpacks.

Other mods on the car include HKS silent power exhaust, pod and manual boost controller set to 9psi.

Any ideas guys? Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/
Share on other sites

I have checked all hose clamps that go from turbo to intercooler and to engine and they are all fine. Checked the hoses to boost controller and they are all fine. It seems to happen at about 7psi when the problem occurs. Any other hoses I should check?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5903559
Share on other sites

Yea 7 psi is what the standard boost solenoid on the car delivers to the wastegate above I think 5000rpm but I have bypassed that with a turbotech boost tee and have been running on 9psi for a couple of months now no dramas until I installed the intercooler and cat yesterday. So I believe it's not the ecu. (I hope any way cos I'm a little strapped for cash lol)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5903575
Share on other sites

its very possible that now you have installed the highflow cat letting the engine breath easier and reaching higher load points in the ecu causing rich and retard,

try backing the boost right down to 7 and see if the issue is still there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5903692
Share on other sites

You are probably pushing the limits of the stock map and it is richening up and retarding the mixture, take the boost controller off and see if it fixes it, if it does then you need a remap or aftermarket ECU, if it is still broken must be an air leak or something somewhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5903810
Share on other sites

Ok I'll try running standard boost tomorrow and see if that fixes it. Cheers guys

Not juist standard boost maybe even less - you will be flowing more air at the same boost levels - you may be the victim of your success - time for a Nistune or other ecu.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5904843
Share on other sites

Ok it seems the car likes 5psi and that's it. Any higher and it hits r&r. Bit of a bummer really cos there is no one in my area who can tune my car. How do I go about getting a Nistune as I have heard they don't like r33's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5905141
Share on other sites

How do I go about getting a Nistune as I have heard they don't like r33's?

Nistune doesn't work with R33 ECUs (last time I read about it anyway...), most people's recommendations seem to be either get a R32 GTS-T ECU + separate controller for VCT (or what ever it is called) or a Z32 ECU & nistune that.

Are you going to mod the car further in terms of power? As in different turbo (or highflow stock one) + all the supporting mods?

If not, you can get away by just using a piggy back interceptor unit like the SAFC 2 to get rid of the R&R when you set the boost to 10 - 12 psi.

This is what I have got in my car atm & it works fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5905286
Share on other sites

I'm planning on highflowing the turbo in 6 month+ depending on when I get posted back up to qld (army). My plan is to get about 250rwkw so I'd say a nistune would be the way to go. I'm located about 3 1/2 hours away from Melbourne so it's a bit of a hassle to get my car tuned as of now unless there is a tuner closer to Albury that I am not aware of

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5905556
Share on other sites

I'm planning on highflowing the turbo in 6 month+ depending on when I get posted back up to qld (army). My plan is to get about 250rwkw so I'd say a nistune would be the way to go.

In that case, yeah go for a full aftermarket ECU solution such as Nistune or PFC.

Edited by Mayuri Krab
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5905607
Share on other sites

Ok update. The car misfired once last night at about 4500rpm and again this afternoon at about the same revs so could the problem I'm having be related to the coilpacks? The coilpacks I originally put in the car where out of my n/a r33 so maybe they are beginning to fail? This is running about 8-9psi of boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5908162
Share on other sites

+1 for plugs, also check on how they are gapped and the heat range etc.

Look at all of the basic stuff before spending time and money on something that may or may not solve the issue.

I'm having issues as well because of the colder weather, however turning the boost down seems to have done the trick. I'm thinking my iridum plugs aren't liking the colder weather.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5908260
Share on other sites

You are running rich. since installing these mods more air is going into the engine and it responds by dumping fuel in. your plugs are fouling from the rich fuel mixture. You need an aftermarket ecu or find a boost level which works right which may be lower than stock but I don't know if this is possible as the actuator is 7psi so you can't really go lower. Get a power fc and tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5908263
Share on other sites

I never thought of the plugs. Didn't think it would happen so suddenly if it was the plugs and the car was running fine until the intercooler and cat were installed. I'll check the plugs tho as I suspect they might have some age about them lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370343-problem-with-33/#findComment-5908269
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...