Jump to content
SAU Community

Head Gasket And Studs Rb25/30


Recommended Posts

hey guys, 99% sure iv done my head gasket :down:

its for my rb25/30, has a few mods and makes decent power, runs around 17psi

but thought id see what gaskets and studs you guys are using and how long for??

any help would be great, thanks in advance

cheers beau

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a few Q's, if you're sure it's head gasket you need to diagnose what could've gone wrong with yours before you ask anyone else about their setups.

Who put the engine together?

What gasket and studs are in there now?

What turbo?

What engine managment do you have, was it tuned properly and do you how much power you have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im guessing it is as my temp gauge went to 130 the other day and was going up and down heaps from like 80 to 110 to 90 up to 130 etc etc so 1st thought was sticky thermostat, replaced it with new 1 and booked it in for coolant flush got that done and its still going up and down heaps in temp and this morning its started to blow white hazzy smoke like coolant burning so i thought head gasket straight away, been rong before though... i bought the car from a member on here (cef11e) with mods done, he gave me a list of mods when i was first talking to him about buying it and there was nothing about head gasket, he just said all new gaskets and seals were used when he built it... (my fault for not asking i guess) so to answer your questions, he did everything he could do himself, im not sure what gasket or studs in it now, its a holset hx35w and it has a remaped ecu that he also tuned himself... its got 175000 on clock and he told me build was done at 140000 so not to many ks since... i mite add this is the 1st real issue its had in the 18/19 months iv owned it!

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that does sound like head gasket, did you notice it start smoking when it was at a high temp? You'll need to get the head re-surfaced and depending on what the head was bolted down with it's a good idea to get a set of ARP head studs as a bit of added insurance. With a set of ARP head studs and a genuine nissan head gasket you'll be sealed up well.

As for whats causing the temp fluctuations... that's a tough one. Are you using an engine fan or thermo? I'm guessing the condition of the coolant that came out was good so we can rule out blocked water galleries and/or radiator... am i right?

Who installed the thermostat and did the coolant flush, was the system bled properly?

Edited by Dobz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh was wen i 1st pulled up this morning was sitting around 100 and then seen the smoke in mirror. it was chemicaly flushd at local natrad and i did thermostat myself... genuine nissan unit! just using engine fan, and fella said there was abit of shit in coolant but nothing out of ordinary. yeh a few people have said ARP studs!

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What sort of power is it making at 17psi?

If there was coolant leaking in the cylinder it would only get in when the engine shuts down. Whilst running the combustion gas would be blowing into the water system and your temps would skyrocket everytime you were giving it some gas and then immediately reduce when you back off. Is that what's happening?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well on 19psi it makes 326rwks so abit less then that.

yep sounds about right mate, although i didnt put my foot down but road i was on was a little hilly so under load it increased yep!

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can do a c02 test on the water system. With the chemical die and it changes colour if combustion gas is leaking into the water system. Ususally pretty definitive. But it does sound pretty well like a blown headgasket.

You could also do a water system pressure test too, see if it holds pressure. I guess for future reference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

the vct oil feed overlaps with a water gallery on the 30 block which is why you need to get the head welded when doing the conversion. so once you weld it both the block and the head have the same pattern as non vct RBs, so you have to use a gasket to suit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeh bottom end was rebuilt to stock spec he said, im not sure what head bolts are in it though, thats a fair saving on the gasket though if im not going to gain any benifit from a cometic or something like it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You all are absolute legends! Thank you for helping me put this into context with your comparisons!
    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
×
×
  • Create New...