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Are you one of the many who thought buying a remote frome ebay could be programmed for your V35, only to find it wont work? i was one of those....

Well watch this space...

i am currently installing non factory remote central locking to my V35 4 door... and will post some pics when its done.

It is basically the same as an install seen on youtube, but a bit different to suit the narrower sedan door trims.... which has meant about 7 hours of trial and error..

.... but it works :)

Edited by Deep Dish V35
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370449-remote-central-locking-fix/
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......because until now i didnt have an alarm......

and because i was lead to believe that it was very risky to tap into the original central locking loom

and because this cost just $35 and taught me alot more about this car's internals

and because maybe i like to go the long way around things :rolleyes: hahaha

Ah, fair enough.

But no it is not risky whatsoever to put an alarm on the standard central locking. But most poeple's central locking starts playing up by its own accord anyways (mine included).

I actually need to put an aftermakret actuator in my driver's side door - a great tutorial video is below for anyone's info. I am going to tackle this soon, as I have had enough of my door intermittently not locking or unlocking.

OK so.....

When my previous BMW needed an alarm, I did this same trick to operate the central locking from the drivers door lock. Its just another actuator that mechanically operates the existing lock, which then triggers the central locking. This was easy in the BMW due to it having rod type mechanisms, and worked faultlessly. Doing it this way just keeps the remote central locking isolated from the rest of the car's electronics, which is handy if youre not quite sure about what's what in the factory wiring loom.

The problem with the V35 is that it has cable operated systems, which I thought were going to be impossible to connect to.

after seeing the following videos... it seemed a whole lot easier

Part 1:

Part 2:

The other problem with the sedan is that the door trims are thinner. You have to install the actuator the other way around (above the speaker) for it to fit without cutting any metal away. And its still a bloody tight fit.

Im not saying this install is right or wrong, but it works for me.

Just a shame I didnt have any new woofers lying around to install while i had the door trim off...

Pic shows the back of the door trim with the installed actuator, the rod passing thru the door handle with all the required bends for clearance, and the clamp onto the lock cable. This was before I finished setting the clamp position.

Edited by Deep Dish V35

I wrote a update to this DIY with better step by step and tips to make 7 hours like the OP to 1 hour...

I post all my stuff in my servicing diy thread but mods seem to think its not worth stickying for some reason.. anyway

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346667-servicing-your-v35-list-of-whats-needed/page__p__5834712__hl__servicing__fromsearch__1#entry5834712

Here it is

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352017-how-to-fix-door-lock/page__p__5647729__hl__door+lock+fix__fromsearch__1#entry5647729

my install electrically was nothing like that.... had to run 5 new wires into the door, and work an issue with the actuator having a much longer stroke length than the door lock could physically handle, and being a sedan required alot more tweaking of the actuator position due to almost no room behind the trim...... hence the longer time.

good write up tho for someone who just wants a new actuator

Edited by Deep Dish V35

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