Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I just had my battery replaced. I did it myself.

What i did:

I went to supercheap and bought a battery branded "Century" with slightly bigger size battery(the guys said this have more power and it have no problem as long as i can fit it in) because they don't have the one exactly same with the old one i using.

And i went back home then replace my battery, it was pretty quick. After that, yay! my engine started but then i realize i can't turn on my stereo system(radio) , there is no power on stereo. Also the batter light is ON on the dashboard.

I then went back to supercheap and get another guy to check what is wrong with it, he took out a Century battery meter(tester) and then test my car. When he ready he asked me to start my car and then the meter read 10.5V(around) and he told me it has to be minimum 13.X v . Rev the engine won't raise the V too. Then he told me that my "Alternator" is broken and need a replacement for that.

He said the Alternator won't charge the battery anymore that is why it stay at 10.5v and he asked me to drive back home asap and then find a mechanic to replace my Alternator.

Is he correct?

Just want to make sure before i go and buy an Alternator from wreckers.

Thanks a lot guys.

p.s Also my car wasn't so smooth on idle. It's like close to dead, probably it's because it only have 10.5v?

Edited by MrKenny

it sounds like an alternator dead (or wiring issue) to me. you are only seeing 10v because the alternator is not working proberly or not working at all, so you are just getting the battery's voltage.

it sounds like an alternator dead (or wiring issue) to me. you are only seeing 10v because the alternator is not working proberly or not working at all, so you are just getting the battery's voltage.

yayaya that's what the SuperCheap guy told me, and asked me to replace the Alternator. And he said it will cost a lot :( :(((

yeah it will cost a couple of hundred including remove and refit.

personally I'd recommend puting a reconditioned alternator in rather than just a second hand one.....you never know how long another second hand one will last before you need to replace it again.

yeah it will cost a couple of hundred including remove and refit.

personally I'd recommend puting a reconditioned alternator in rather than just a second hand one.....you never know how long another second hand one will last before you need to replace it again.

do you mean ask a auto electrician to rebuild the alternator inside for me? do you know roughly how much it will cost? and i have no idea how to remove it from my car and refit it :(

yeah it's not a tricky job really...but if not confident get someone to do it for you.

Either they can rebuild the one in your car, or they can swap it for a pre-rebuilt one. Not sure on an exact cost but it will be a couple of hundred dollars.

if its a fuse issue, it wont stay at 10V right? 10V is way too low correct??

alternator has an ignition supply to excite it. without that supply it wont charge and will continue below 10v until it wont run at all. not sure if the light will be on if the fuse is blown but its easy to check fuses so start there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
×
×
  • Create New...