Jump to content
SAU Community

11 sec r34 gtr

markr34gtr

By markr34gtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Congrats on the time man, gives me something to look forward to when I take mine down the strip (assuming I can drive it properly :)) as I have a similar setup.

Once I can get it launching properly, hoping for mid to high 11 second pass... but yeah congratulations dude ;)

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted

Congrats on getting into the 11's mate ;)

You just can't beat a mild street GT-R set-up. An 11sec street car that can put its power down with minimal fuss, you've got to love that. 4WD ='s sub 2.0 60's even if you can't drive to save yourself, like me :)

Just going off topic for a sec... Buster (Brett?) do you use your NT555's for general street driving? And if so, how do you rate them?

LaL Rising Star

LaL

Posted
Posted

In japan i ran :

R33 GT-R(not vspec)

HKS Full Exhaust

17PSI

Maxxis Tyres 245's ( MA-v1) : they are really crap.

HKS Cam Gears

11.98 @ 118Mph

60Ft = cannot remember i think 1.8 ?

Standard ECU

button clutch

TRUST AIRPODS

with some good pair of tyres and uniglide and 22PSI i could easly do mid to low 11's.

BU5TER Grand Master

BU5TER

Posted
Posted
Just going off topic for a sec... Buster (Brett?) do you use your NT555's for general street driving? And if so, how do you rate them?

Yep I've got one pair on my 17" Volk TE37's rear (everyday wheels), and another pair on the 16" R32 GTR rims (drag rims), I have found them to be great grip wise as what ever I can do at the stripp I can near do on the street if needed, though they wear out pretty damn fast

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the info Buster ;) As soon as funds are available NT555's will be going onto the rear. If they last me 2-3k, with a couple of drag meets mixed in, I'll be happy enough. The used pair you had for sale, they were 16's weren't they?

Sorry for the small hijack everyone... carry on :(

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted

This is why I was surprised with the terminal speed of Mark's pass with GT2530s...

Damn!!! Just got back from calder, 12.00 @114mph......

I want that 11!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh yeah, stock turbos running 1.1 bar, stock ecu.....

114mph with stock turbos and stock ECU :stupid::/:rofl:

JAGR33 Grand Master

JAGR33

Posted
Posted
This is why I was surprised with the terminal speed of Mark's pass with GT2530s...

114mph with stock turbos and stock ECU :stupid::/:rofl:

And that's with 260rwkws (274rwkws in shootout mode) and Nismo twin plate clutch, fark that clutch can take a beating and keep biting hard...

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted
hahaha thats cool, you should be able to get 3k out of them and a few drag meets for sure depends on how big a burnouts you do, yeah I'm selling the 16's

Thanks again mate. I'm not one for HUGE burnouts, but if that's what the Nittos need to stick, then so be it :D I'd like to try and squeeze 275/40/17's on the back.

Emre Proficient

Emre

Posted
Posted

Merli,

Mark is not running the 2530s no way near to their full potential yet.

2-3 mph difference between Jack's and Mark's run adds up to the 20-30 kw difference at the wheels.

High 120s is achievable with the 2530s and maybe that magical 130mph. That may be good enough for 10s on Nittos. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Papichulo96
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Papichulo96 · Posted

      Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • Sxnjeet
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Sxnjeet · Posted

      yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...