M35 Boost Bleed Valve

[Sage222]

Anyone able to show me some picks on the best way to install this? Should i leave the factory solenoid in place or circumvent it? (usually i circumvent it)

Cheers.

Edited July 12, 2011 by Sage222

[Sunkist]

Anyone able to show me some picks on the best way to install this? Should i leave the factory solenoid in place or circumvent it? (usually i circumvent it)

Cheers.

get rid of factory. lol i made the mistake of not, and my boost would continuously change from hi-low

[Jetwreck]

Anyone able to show me some picks on the best way to install this? Should i leave the factory solenoid in place or circumvent it? (usually i circumvent it)

Cheers.

what boost bleed valve did you get???

[Sage222]

Got a Turbotech after reading some good things:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbotech-manual-turbo-boost-controller-ORIGINAL-/220630394267?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335e98a59b

&

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73375

You able to help me out with some pics Aaron?

[Sunkist]

Got a Turbotech after reading some good things:

http://www.ebay.com....=item335e98a59b

&

http://www.skylinesa...showtopic=73375

You able to help me out with some pics Aaron?

yeh i will pm me your number ill give you a call tonight if you still need help.

really simple.

[Sage222]

i should add that i dont really want to run anymore boost.. (well maybe 1 or 2 psi ) i just want to get rid of the 2 stages that it currently has.. i can control the boost by my right foot.. dont need the car to do it for me

[zei20l]

doesnt it only limit boost when the engine temp is below 55degrees (or so)?

[Sage222]

mine can limit at 7psi pending on throttle position.

[zei20l]

hm i did not know. time to put in the boost controller i think

[scotty nm35]

I would guess its seeing a problem and going into some sort of low power mode. Do you have an engine light coming up occasionally?

Have you cut the Brake signal wire on the ecu? That would do it.

Either way I would get rid of it but understand you will need a tune for best effect if you go higher boost, grab an emanage and lean the mixtures out, even stock boost can get you over 180kw. The gas can be tuned to some extent too if its anything like Jethro's, possibly netting more power.

I noticed those valves work on bleeding the air off as well as a ball and spring type of regulator. I prefer the Turbosmart ones personally, or just modify the actuator for the best response. What boost do you want to run eventually?

[ironpaw]

I would guess its seeing a problem and going into some sort of low power mode. Do you have an engine light coming up occasionally?

Have you cut the Brake signal wire on the ecu? That would do it.

Either way I would get rid of it but understand you will need a tune for best effect if you go higher boost, grab an emanage and lean the mixtures out, even stock boost can get you over 180kw. The gas can be tuned to some extent too if its anything like Jethro's, possibly netting more power.

I noticed those valves work on bleeding the air off as well as a ball and spring type of regulator. I prefer the Turbosmart ones personally, or just modify the actuator for the best response. What boost do you want to run eventually?

I got the same setup as Sage from the same place...

ceopt mine is leaning out after 5k rpm...and thats at 15 psi!!!!!

bloody hell

[Sage222]

the only thing i have to compare it to is the SR20DET.. used to run 7psi and the boost came on very progressively.. as soon as i put on a bleed valve and circumvented the factory unit it turned into a f*kn monster! completely different car even at the same boost.. and when i went to 14psi.. omg it was awesome! (datsun 1600 @ 950kg)

all that aside no one has told me where to plumb it in yet!

Edited July 12, 2011 by Sage222

[slippylotion]

I would imagine it's like another turbo set up. A feed from the pressure side of the turbo(before throttle body) into the bleed valve and out side of the bleed valve into the wastegate actuator.

[Jetwreck]

OH here you go......

1. Run a line (using your old input) from the intake pipe just before the throttle body...then run a line up from your actuator.......where they meet in the middle put you boost controller (not a fan of that bleed valve....I had spike issues with it).

2. Block off the hole o the intake pipe where the boost solenoid connects in.

3. Loop a bit of hose on the boost solenoid.

4. Do NOT throw away or cut up your original lines as there is a little regulator in one of them.....run new boost lines in other words.

Edited July 12, 2011 by Jetwreck

[slippylotion]

You should keep the lines as short as possible, this helps avoid spikes. I would choose somewhere closer than just before the throttle body. Nearer to the turbo is better.

Edited July 12, 2011 by slippylotion

[Sage222]

awesome thanks guys will give it a shot this weekend

[Jetwreck]

You should keep the lines as short as possible, this helps avoid spikes. I would choose somewhere closer than just before the throttle body. Nearer to the turbo is better.

Where?

[Sunkist]

Where?

+1

there isnt anywhere closer, unless you tap a fitting into the IC pipe

[slippylotion]

+1

there isnt anywhere closer, unless you tap a fitting into the IC pipe

Correct. Just get a simple nipple fitted to the hot pipe.

[Sunkist]

Correct. Just get a simple nipple fitted to the hot pipe.

you'll find its not needed, it only spikes because of the weak spring in the actuator.

since ive done the "scottys backyard spring actuator mod" i founf it doesnt spike at all.