Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So you still have the bleed valve setup? Put a ball bearing in there to block it if needed so it doesnt bleed anymore. The hose that goes to the stock solenoid has a restrictor in it so either dont use it or replace the hose at least.

Your setup may not work to the same boost as the last car. Turn it down to minimum and slowly wind it up.

So you still have the bleed valve setup? Put a ball bearing in there to block it if needed so it doesnt bleed anymore. The hose that goes to the stock solenoid has a restrictor in it so either dont use it or replace the hose at least.

Your setup may not work to the same boost as the last car. Turn it down to minimum and slowly wind it up.

I don't have a bleed valve at all, just the Blitz SBC and the standard boost solenoid. So from the T-piece to the stock solenoid I should use a new hose?

The stock solenoid IS the bleed valve. Thats how it works, by bleeding off some of the wastegate pressure through a 1mm restrictor. This needs to be removed completely in your setup and the blitz solenoid placed between the other two larger hoses, it cuts the pressure to the actuator altogether unless energised.

I can weld pretty well but MS Paint isnt my strong point. :blush:

Place the Blitz solenoid wherever you want it, run the OUT to the actuator and the IN to the intake near the BOV using new hoses. Use cable ties to stop the hoses blowing off.

Here's what Scott's talking about (I think, lol).

If you have a boost control system that uses a solenoid to interupt the flow to the wastegate, ie wastegate sees no boost whilst solenoid is closed & sees boost when it's open (normally pulses to maintain chosen boost pressure - one of the best ways to control boost IMO), then you need to take boost hose off the top of the T in the picture. Run that to IN of your solenoid. The OUT from your solenoid goes to the wastegate actuator.

post-76144-0-78155500-1318135910_thumb.jpg

It can be confusing. I've never seen an engine with so many vacuum/boost hoses coming off an intake system :wacko: .

Edited by Commsman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
×
×
  • Create New...