Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

just pick up my R34GTR and I have been told it has some "Nismo Sport Clutch Kit" dont even know what part no is ??? I believe it has been change to single flywheel !!

now I am hearing this rattle noise when the car on idle, when I clutch in it goes away !! I have been told by my mechanic its normal becuase factory Nissan runs a dual mass fly wheel !! he said it happens when you change to flywheel !!

this might sounds ok to alot of ppl but this is anoying me to the hell !! any way we can get rid of this noise beside going back to dual mass flywheel ??

thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370736-anoying-r34gtr-rattle/
Share on other sites

The getrag's all rattle in neutral. Twin plate clutchs rattle only happens when your foot has the clutch pedal to the floor. When the clutch is engaged your listening to the gearbox.

The dual mass is supposed to quieten it a little, but it doesnt. Get a louder exhaust or a bigger stereo. Putting your foot on and off the clutch a few times and you can get the sound to change and quieten sometimes...

had a dual mass in my lexus but then changed to single mass and letting clutch out there are squeaky sounds

and just recently i have the same problem as you, noisy rattly sound in neutral, does yours increase as revs increase?

i figured mine was the clutch bearing, annoying and makes you self conscious that people think your car is shit when you pull up but harmless really ahah

The getrag's all rattle in neutral.

Is the gearbox itself noisy, or do you mean that the dual mass flywheel rattles when it gets old?

The dual mass is supposed to quieten it a little, but it doesnt.

What's the theory behind that? I would have thought a dual mass could only make noise as it gets old, not help suppress noise. Especially considering its connected to the engine not the gearbox.

OP - I cant see how non-dual mass, non-multi plate clutch would be noisy. I mean, what can rattle?

I'm looking for edumacation plz

As much as we would like our flywheels to remain flat all the time, in reality they never are. The moment you start to drive the car, friction generates heat hot spots that in turn cause iregular expansion of the material. This warps the surface of the flywheel and causes driveline shuddering in its wost cases. It is especialy noticable if you try and drive like a grandma with a 3 or 4 puck ceramic clutch disc and a bad ass heavy clutch plate.

Conventional clutch setups have a flywheel directly bolt to the crankshaft. The clutch pressure plate is also hard bolted to the flywheel. And the clutch friction disc is in between the two, with its drive spline slipped over the input shaft on the gearbox. This allows for no movement anywhere in the driveline to dampen the opertation and engagement of the clutch.

A dual mass flywheel is like a mix of a flywheel and a flex plate from an auto setup. The friction surface of the flywheel is rivetted to a mounting plate that is bolted to the crankshaft. This allows the flywheel to move a little and soften the engagement of the clutch as it engages. The goal being to make the car more drivable.

This is a dual mass. See the 12 rivets in the pic:

676.jpg

This is conventional

nengun-130966-00-nismo-lightweight_flywheel_rb20rb25rb26.jpg

Every R34 Gtr ive seen all have the getrag rattle at idle and in neutral. No its not age/wear related, having seen a standard vspec with < 30,000 genuine km and it still rattled.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...