Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Iv got a hks ssq bov that doesn't flutter was wondering if there's any way to make it? Don't get me wrong I love the sound of the standard sound but would like to hear Wat it sounds like.fluttering any ideas?

There is a bolt on the back for adjustment..

Thanks

-Jayden-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370845-hks-ssq-bov-flutter/
Share on other sites

Iv got a hks ssq bov that doesn't flutter was wondering if there's any way to make it? Don't get me wrong I love the sound of the standard sound but would like to hear Wat it sounds like.fluttering any ideas?

There is a bolt on the back for adjustment..

Thanks

-Jayden-

Want flutter? Don't run a bov. A bov is designed to stop compressor surge (flutter)

How do I achieve flutter with out surging?

Blank your bov or block the vacuum line(not with stock bov because it will still open on full boost). im not sure on the hp limit but i wouldnt do it over 300hp. someone should be able to shed some better light on the subject.

Edited by Blueone

^ Shit post is shit

Tightening the BOV or blocking it is just going to cause compressor surge. Stao told me to avoid any compressor surge but I really do like the sound of it.

Only if you tighten it too much.. I think you will find that true compressor surge is actually when the engine cant swallow the boost the turbo is throwing at it.

It will frighten you...

^ Shit post is shit

Tightening the BOV or blocking it is just going to cause compressor surge. Stao told me to avoid any compressor surge but I really do like the sound of it.

Cool story bro!

having no BOV does not cause compressor surge :thumbsup:

Agreed. It was a simple question with a simple answer. if you dont like flutter, then f**k off and dont post. Noone cares what you have to say.

So anyway, back OT, im guessing there will be a little locking nut you need to undo, then wind the screw in a few turns, and re lock the nut.

Just try it on different settings untill you find a sound you like.

I have a Greddy Type RS and did the same. I didnt want flutter, but having it really loose sounded poop, so i tightened it up a touch. I get flutter at very low load/boost and light VAC, but once the boost is up a few psi it opens properly.

I dont see it causing any harm. Has been like it for a year or so now.

Agreed. It was a simple question with a simple answer. if you dont like flutter, then f**k off and dont post. Noone cares what you have to say.

So anyway, back OT, im guessing there will be a little locking nut you need to undo, then wind the screw in a few turns, and re lock the nut.

Just try it on different settings untill you find a sound you like.

I have a Greddy Type RS and did the same. I didnt want flutter, but having it really loose sounded poop, so i tightened it up a touch. I get flutter at very low load/boost and light VAC, but once the boost is up a few psi it opens properly.

I dont see it causing any harm. Has been like it for a year or so now.

Thanks mate did just that it sounds great but I'm running standard turbo standard boost and it sounds like its coming out of the pod but coz its low boost it can't do n e damage can it ?

Thanks mate did just that it sounds great but I'm running standard turbo standard boost and it sounds like its coming out of the pod but coz its low boost it can't do n e damage can it ?

I ran my stock turbo with a blocked BOV since I bought the car. Took it out, there is very minimal shaft play. Never had any issues. The sound will be coming out of your pod.

Some people think flutter is the bov opening and closing rapidly... I don't think this happens. Although those are generally youtube comments. I'm gonna reinstall my turbosmart BOV after I get my plumb back adapter and tighten it up so I get flutter on low boost but don't risk damage on higher boost.

lol to all the people saying surge isnt flutter, they are teh saem thing as the car above on the dyno, just happen when you lift off instead of under load. As far as the turbo is concerned it is the same thing(running too far to the left of the compressor map past the surge line)

Reverb.

The trapped boost pressure when the throttle plate is closed has no here to go but back out through the compressor turbine and out the airfilter.

A BOV releases this pressure so it doesnt have to force its way back through the turbine.

I run my BOV's fairly tight so at low boost you get a reverb(flutter) but anything over 9psi the bov helps to release the pressure.

I have never seen or heard of a turbo dieing due to this.

lol to all the people saying surge isnt flutter, they are teh saem thing as the car above on the dyno, just happen when you lift off instead of under load. As far as the turbo is concerned it is the same thing(running too far to the left of the compressor map past the surge line)

Compressor surge is not flutter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...