Jump to content
SAU Community

Alpine Head Unit Problem

mii11x

By mii11x,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

mii11x Community Regular

mii11x

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I installed a new alpine cda117e head unit today (into a 32 gts) and works fine, however, i have programmed (press and hold the desired number 1-6) the radio stations in but when i turn the car off and back on again the stations are not in my presets.

I have looked throught the manual numerous times but i cant seem to find any info that would help me store the stations.....i assume if i set the fader, balance, eq settings they too would be lost upon shutdown of the car, though i have not tried this yet.

Does anyone have one of these units?? or does anyone have any suggestions as to why this would be happening??

Thanks for your time

Mick

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Skavenski Collaborator

Skavenski

Posted
Posted

your constant wire isnt wired up properly, should be the yellow one, need to be spliced into a wire that has power when your keys not in the car or connected directly to the battery,

every time you turn your car off there is no power flowing to it to keep the memory.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Skavenski Collaborator

Skavenski

Posted
Posted

red should be wired to accessories- something that has power only when the car is on, this is what tells the unit to turn on, like the ignition switch or cigarette lighter.

yellow is to keep the memory

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mii11x Community Regular

mii11x

Posted
  • Author
Posted

red should be wired to accessories- something that has power only when the car is on, this is what tells the unit to turn on, like the ignition switch or cigarette lighter.

yellow is to keep the memory

thanks for reply mate, i was starting to think i may have missed something in the wiring (guess you shouldnt try this stuff while on the cans lol), ill rip it out on the weekend and check it all again, i prob missed splicing it in by the sounds of it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      this explains the possibility of several maps with different boost levels
    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      ok, I understand much better how we can control the boost and increase the number of psi before opening the wastegate
    • GTSBoy
      Boost level and torque curve

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well.... yes and perhaps no. It depends on what you mean by "spool". For most of us, the point that we would describe as where the turbo is "spooling" is the point where the wheel speed gets high enough for it to start making some boost. This is coincidentally around about the point where it starts making noise - hence the "spooling" sound. If that is what you mean, then no - the wastegate should still be shut at this point. The boost will still be way below the point where it should start opening. If, on the other hand, you mean "spool" as "reach full boost", then yes. At the point where the boost has reached target, then boost control has already started. The wastegate is already open, and has been for some time. Some short time, definitely, but still, some time. If you have no boost controller - just the wastegate actuator connected to the boost source, then you have a mechanical system working as a pressure balance. There is pressure on one side of the wastegate actuator's diaphragm from the spring, and pressure on the other side coming from the boost measurement location (the "source"). This is not a digital thing. The wastegate does not stay shut until the boost pressure reaches the spring "pressure". The spring will start to compress as soon as you start to apply any pressure onto it. This can be controlled somewhat by adding pre-load into the spring, but you cannot add enough preload to make it into a digital switch behaviour. The wastegate will crack open and start to leak exhaust out (and therefore not though the turbine) well before you reach the target boost pressure. Electronic (and some mechanical/pneumatic) boost controllers will act to prevent the boost source applying pressure to the actuator until just before you reach target boost, thus preventing the wastegate from creeping open. And some boost controllers will apply boost pressure on the spring side to further push it shut. And this can be be necessary because the exhaust pressure in the manifold also pushes on the wastegate valve and tries to open it and you cab get it leaking even without it being connected to the boost source.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      A stand alone boost controller will not give you the control you need, unlike a modern ECU. Your boost will always naturally target the wastegate's opening pressure first, your controller then will allow you to add more boost as required.
    • GTSBoy
      A little PU bush story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I recently discovered that I could not remove the outer bolt on one of my rear UCAs. Looked like it was seized to the crush tube. It wasn't all that long since I had last had that arm out (I dunno exactly, but certainly <2 yrs), so I was a bit surprised. I thought I had stock bushes in the rear knuckles, so I ordered some new PU bushes and resigned myself to having to do some dismantlery....and some butchery. It was clear that the seized bush was going to need to have the bolt cut out of it and then possibly some more brutality after that. Upon getting the 3x arms on each side disconnected from the knuckles (with the exception of the seized one, of course), I discovered that I had in fact put PU bushes into the knuckles when I did the subframe conversion about 12-13 years ago. So, I say "Oh, good, I might not have to swap any of these others out". We set to work butchering the bolt out of the seized arm. Stainless blade in a big-arse Milwaukee recipro made short work of it, and also damaged the arm, which added a welding and grinding and painting step to the whole exercise. During the butchery it became clear that the bolt was not just seized but bent. Head scratching ensued, as it is hard to understand how that bolt could get bent. I did suffer a broken (stock) toe control arm on that side a few months ago, and drove some miles with some significant rear wheel self steer and lack of control, which probably was the cause. But it's still hard to understand how it would bend that bolt, rather than just bend the arm. But here's the start of the real discoveries. The crush tube was rusty as all shit. I mean seriously rusty. A little on the inside, contributing to the tube seizing to the bolt (along with the bend). But the outside had at least 2-3mm of compressed flaky iron oxide jammed in between the parent metal and the PU bush. This one was brutalised and still took some effort to get the PU off the crush tube. So I thought I'd inspect the others more closely. The one on the tension rod adjacent the bent one was first. I had to use a 2-jaw puller to get the crush tube out, and it took some effort. It came out looking like the first one. All 6 of them were the same, except for one that looked not too bad. Had some corrosion on it, but was mostly OK. There was also a significant amount of corrosion on the inner surfaces of the knuckles. They took some convincing with pointy tools to let go their grip on the inside of the holes they were in. There was no sign of the original (SuperPro) lube anywhere. I and my bro-in-law have never seen any crush tube end up looking like this. It was seriously like the car has spent time putting boats into the water at the boat ramp. So, it seems like the PU might have been bonded to the steel on both sides, which would have to make them work more like stock rubber bushes (where arm deflection results in twist inside the rubber). Despite this, I have never had cause to believe that they were so tightly bound up. The suspension moved up and down much as you'd expect. The car never made any noises in those bushes that would have led me to believe there was a problem. Maybe the rusty interfaces actually were "sliding". Anyway, lesson learnt. Even quiet, non-troublesome PU bushes should be inspected every now and then!
×
×
  • Create New...