Jump to content
SAU Community

Dont Know If My Clutch And Gearbox Is On Right?

dantheman88
 Share

Recommended Posts

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
Posted

I recently put my rb20 gearbox and clutch on my rb25 and put the engine back in and now have just put my clutch slave on and tried to put the brake fluid through it using the DIY on here (bleeding the air out of each section)

now I think I have done it right but my clutch pedal still doesnt have any pressure. I dont know how much movement the fork is supposed to have but when I put the slave on I had to compress the pin on it to get it in between the fork and where it sits. The only movement I can get on the fork is by by pushing it into the slave which pushes the slave pin in even more. Is it supposed to have more movement then that?

I could hear when I push the fork into the slave when the clutch pedal is down it makes the clutch pedal jump.

Another thing I notcied is that its hard to get the gears into place but Im not sure if thats because the gearbox doesnt have any oil in it. Would this cause this? or has something gone wrong with my clutch fork when my clutch went on?

Or have I just put the fluid in wrong?

This is how my slave sits normally. The fork cannot move backwards at all. is this normal?

post-85299-0-19753300-1310635605_thumb.jpg

Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

Have you got the right slave. I changed my rb20det gearbox to a rb25det and I had to change the slave.

Try adjusting the nut at the top of your clutch pedal where it pushes the rod into the master.

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh I have the right slave. Im using a rb20 box. The rb20 uses a push clutch which means the slave pin should be able to push the clutch fork right??? If so I think something has gone when I have put the clutch and box on cos I cant push the fork at all. it will only move towards the slave, and isnt the slave supposed to push it??

Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

Yes the slave should push the arm. I would suggest taking the slave off the side of the gearbox and see if it moves with out the arm in the way. That way you will know if its clutch or hydrolics.

If its not the hydrolics then look at the pivot ball. Possibly a different clutch might sit further out so the fulcrum angle will change.

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Ducati, I will try taking it off when i get home in a couple hours and see if it moves without the fork in the way. The fork definantly has no backward movement so maybe something with the pivot ball or thrust bearing has gone wrong

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I tested the slave and it is fine. I took the gearbox off and when I moved it off a bit the clutch fork was able to move fine, but when its moved back on the fork cant move backwards at all. It feels like the clutch cover is too big or something for the bearing to move forward.

Is the rb20 and rb25 clutch cover different?

I was thinking maybe I have a rb25 one? cos the 20 and 25 clutches are the same as far as I know

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

20 one will work if it's a 20 gearbox. The difference between RB20 and RB25 (R33 era) is the bolts are on the other side of the slave. R34 GTT and late 32GTR onwards went to pull type clutch.

Have you tried cracking the bleed nipple on the slave and getting some fluid through? Probably got a huge air lock.. there's also a bleed nipple on the master cylinder.

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeh I did the whole process of bleeding th air out of each section for the slave. It's just that the slave needs the pin pushed in a fair way just to get it in place (shown

In the pic in my first post) and the fork has absolutely no backward movement even If I tap it with a hammer.

That's what's made me think that I may have a rb25 clutch cover if they are bigger then rb20 ones??? Cos that may explain why my fork can't move. What do you reckon?

And I just remembered my clutch cover didn't line up to the pins on my flywheel and I had to drill the holes out a bit on the cover to make it go on which I found a bit strange :huh:

Edited by dantheman88
dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

By the looks of this site the rb20 and rb25 pressure plates are the same. And according to the site I definantly have a turbo pressure plate and flywheel so Now i have no clue what the problem could be :(

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151491

ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

your not trying to push the clutch fork with your hand are you as there is no way in hell you will move it.

I would say you just havent bled it properly. Even if its the wrong cylinder it would still move, it just wouldnt move enough to get gears thats all.

If it doesnt move at all, ie by pushing the clutch fork with a pry bar, by operating the clutch through the pedal, then you have something wrong inside the bell housing.

Why are you using a 20 box on a 25 anyway? I hope your not a crazy driver as ist not going to last long

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i have tried tapping it with a hammer and using a pry bar and couldnt get any movement. I am not 100% if it bled right as I have never done it before. But i didnt follow the instructions on here and I still couldnt get my clutch pedal to get pressure. but I thought that may have been becasue my slave pin was compressed so much.

I am using a rb20 box as thats what came with my project. I have an aftermarket clutch, but I still have a stock pressure plate and flywheel. Could the stock flywheel with an aftermarket clutch be causing the fork not to move?

I know the rb20 box isnt very strong but i wasnt planning to go very hard on it until I could get a rb25 box

Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

I swaped a rb20 box for a rb25 box and found the slave cylinder were different. I also had no pedal feel at first when I changed to a rb25box. The clutch and flywheel where all the same. After I bled it I still had no pedal feel. In the end I had to adjust the nut and pin that went into the master at the top of the clutch pedal. Wind the pin in until it hits the cyliner.

Has your pedal any pressure or does it feel like its not even pushing the master pin in?

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I found that the hard line from the master wasn't done up very tight and was leaking a little. So I tightened it and now the clutch pedal Has some pressure and pushes the fork, but it doesn't feel quite normal yet. It feels loose until it jut about hits the floor, then gets pressure a little. I'm not sure if I need to adjust the clutch or try bleeding out any air again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pez5
      ST Coilovers by KW SUIT Nissan Z33 Infinity G35 Coupe

      By pez5 · Posted

      PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • WMDC35
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...