Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I am from the U.S. and am in need of some info. I have a rb26 converted to a single precision 6265 turbo, and precision 880cc low impediance injectors. I am trying to tune my power fc d-jetro with datalogit and have ran into a few issues with my tuner. He is familiar with AEM and hasnt really messed with anything quite like this. I am not running any o2 sensors simpley a AEM UEGO, and have tapped the 2 3.5bar map sensors inito the runners of number 3 and 4 after the throttle boddies. This car was a ground up build and pretty much stock motor besides cam gears, headgasket and studs. My questions are as follows.

1. How do I conver the map axis to load and rpm instead of seeing it as P and N?

2. Can anyone email me a base map for 880cc injectors?

3. I used my latency values given for stock injectors and did the conversion for the new larger ones and the msec on them and still my tuner has issues with it.

4. How does the self learning idle work? Do I need the stock o2 sensors functioning at this time? Pretty much at idle it runs 10.0's pig rich and when we try to lean it out either on the injector mapping or injector tables it starts to surge.

My tuner said if he can get a map to download straight to the car with 880cc injectors he can build off that but I am at my wits end and am about to sell it all and go Vipec or AEM haha! Thanks for any help you guys can give.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371017-power-fc-d-jetro-newb/
Share on other sites

email me your setup and i will email something that will get you started. The djetro is one of the best rb26 ecu's around,

I would go as far saying that if your new to PFC and VIPEC / LINK the PFC in its std layout is better than the VIPEC / LINK (unless of course your an experienced LINK VIPEC tuner)

ive found on the rb26 its best to use the 5d fuel maps to get any decent type of fuel economy with a big HP setup... all due to the single map sensor picks resolution seems to have more common areas (in cruise) than the PFC's dual map sensor. (that said i would have a Link in my own car because of the extra maps available to me).

[email protected]

stock n1 rb26

precision 6265

precision 880cc injectors

The following are the latency @ voltage values for our 880cc injectors:Open Time Latency (ms) @ Voltage --> 1.63ms @ 8.7v 1.00ms @ 10.4v .80ms @ 12.2v .70ms @ 13.9v .60ms @ 15.6v .56ms @ 17.4v .56ms @ 19.1v .53ms @ 20.9vIf you need to convert the latency values to microseconds, move the decimal 3 places to the right. For example the first value would be 1630 microseconds @ 8.7 Volts.

I would like someone to walk me through how to do the self idle also. right now my car idles good but 10.0's very rich. When we played with the injector mapping it started to lean slightly but began surging bad. Will this happen if we do not do the idle process? Also How does the power fc know how to idle with the 02 sensors no longer being installed on the car? No problems status I am actually about to chuck this damn thing and get vipec seeing power fc is not common where I am from and already have money in it and a tuner. Just trying to get some where with it or get rid of it.

Edited by lloydxmas

the powerfc is able to idle with working 02 sensors or no 02 sensors, or 02 feedback turned off

depending on the powerfc version and if IDLE-IG is enabled under function select, its usually hard locked to 15deg or 20deg (depending on rb25 or rb26)

you cannot enable the self idle learn feature

it is a once only feature that is enabled automatically when you perform DATA INIT

then next time you turn the car on it runs through the 30 minute self idle procedure

if you skip this procedure, f**k around with the car, drive or it have mangled idle air control, mangled sensors, mangled intake etc then its toast and you must DATA INIT again and re-do the procedure

if you mangle it the usual outcome is instant stall when you tap the throttle or wonky idle

that is, hunting all over the place (rpm stall / rpm hunt) not AFR hunting

My tuner is comfortable with AEM and only used power fc one time years ago. Basically my car was a ground up restoration and so only thing used still on it are iacv and a few other sensors. We want a base map that way we can eliminate the surge issue to the tune or sensor. Also the AFR does hunt when we lean the injectors out too not just the idle. When we leave it like it sits its rich (10.0's) but idles and revs smooth.

Edited by lloydxmas

emailed you a few starters. First one is good for mid 400rwkw"s second was around mid 300"s

I take no responsibility for them (as they were spot on in the respective cars but on anything else they are just good bases to start from as no two setups are the same) and i have sent them on the proviso they are not to be shared with anyone but your tuner....

the powerfc is able to idle with working 02 sensors or no 02 sensors, or 02 feedback turned off

depending on the powerfc version and if IDLE-IG is enabled under function select, its usually hard locked to 15deg or 20deg (depending on rb25 or rb26)

you cannot enable the self idle learn feature

it is a once only feature that is enabled automatically when you perform DATA INIT

then next time you turn the car on it runs through the 30 minute self idle procedure

if you skip this procedure, f**k around with the car, drive or it have mangled idle air control, mangled sensors, mangled intake etc then its toast and you must DATA INIT again and re-do the procedure

if you mangle it the usual outcome is instant stall when you tap the throttle or wonky idle

that is, hunting all over the place (rpm stall / rpm hunt) not AFR hunting

a little OT but do you know if the self learn data is saved and loaded with tune files or is it completely seperate and unchanged until a data init?

as far as i can tell it stored on the powerfc unit and is not part of the tune

ie you cant copy the self idle learnt data - if there is data, if that makes sense

if you buy a brand new powerfc

connect it to your car

turn key to ON but dont start it and copy someone else's tune over the top or tune it accordingly

then start the car, you still have to do self idle procured

the only way to start it is to DATA INIT

and then next key on self idle learning procedure

thats the 30 minutes of normal idle, 10 minute air con, 10 minute demister etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
    • Hey everyone! Im so grateful to be apart of this community and ill do my best to be apart of this. Firstly, i'm not disclosing my real name due to in real life circumstances surrounding my privacy and public image (sorry lol) Secondly, The only thing personal I am willing to share is that I'm from Sydney and a descendant of one of Sydneys largest mortgage firms. I got gifted my first ever car, a 2022 Porsche Cayenne and I love it to death. Ive been driving it for about 5 or 6 months now and honestly Im so grateful for my parents for gifting me this vehicle. However recently I've been working my ass off to afford my second car (which I need help deciding soooooo community help me out please?). Once decided, im planning to try modify it myself. Recent I've been thinking about getting a Skyline, particularly a 25GT or GT-V, yes I know overrated as hell, but I'm also considering a Chaser which I recently came to love. However my dream is to one day own a 180SX (So hard to find clean versions and im not really into importing).  Lastly before I send this off, I want to apologize if I sound tacky or pretentious. I try not to and want to genuinely learn from everyone and anyone. (Im no expert in this area) Thanks for reading!
    • I've got three stashed away but it's starting to get silly with the prices 
×
×
  • Create New...