Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They look good but only 4000mcd? you might have some trouble in direct sunlight. With my first ones I made I used 8000mcd in red but I wouldnt like to go any lower than that.

177970496_full.jpg

And my second lot I went for high powered Superflux at 70ma, If you want bright I would recommend these.

dsc_21161.jpg

dsc_21071.jpg

I can't get these damn R33 lights apart :( there is no WAY I can see to get them apart. I heat it up for 15 minutes in 100c oven and no matter where I try to wedge anything in to pull off the red lens, I can just hear it cracking. I think I have to give this tut a miss :(

Edit: Never mind! I f**king done it! The R33 lights are a bitch because it is one piece. What I done was heat it for about 18 minutes on 100c(fan OFF). When it came out I put a blunt object into the rear of the tail light where the globes sit and slowly pushed it out. I already broke most of the retaining clips so it just came out, you might have to pry them back to get the lens to come out. Now to design up the pattern, print it out and make my template!

And my second lot I went for high powered Superflux at 70ma, If you want bright I would recommend these.

dsc_21161.jpg

dsc_21071.jpg

Where do I source these superlux LED's? Ebay good enough? Did you build the current regulator your self or is there already a kit out there to control an array of these LED's. Do you just replace every regular LED with these superlux leds?

http://www.ebay.com....=item33458982de

This looks alright. 15000mcd brightness, 12 - 15v. All I would have to do is wire them up and drop them with a fuse and a potentiometer so I can control their brightness... But looking at what you have used, seems more technical... Care to elaborate on the parts used etc?

What pattern would you do for an R33? Would the R34 big light be suitable for both lights on the R33? Or just a single ring of LEDs?

Edited by SargeRX8

Theres no off the shelf kits that I know of and that board that I posted is made up of 5 regulators 4 for each light and 1 for the indicators and then a pulse width modulator to dim them when the headlights are on. There is a lot more involved when working with superflux leds because of the extra current draw of 70ma compared to the 5mm which are normally only 20ma so I'd stick to the 5mm if your just starting out to get your head round it

Edited by sinnerstar

I can build a current regulating circuit(Ive built a few in the past using a couple resistors, pots, LM317T). When I build the circuit using these parts, the LM317T is used instead to regulate current, rather than voltage. They support up to 1.5A so I should be able to feed them. The only problem is the where do I place them and is it the current which affects the brightness or the voltage?

I think for the sake of just building this and getting it done, Ill just use 5mm's because all the parts are tested and tried for.

Why did you need 5 regulators per light? The total draw would be about 2000ma(2amps) so maybe two of the regulators should be fine or did you divide the light into a pie and control each piece. That is 20 regulators you need...

yeh u could use it as a direct replacement if u wanted to...

only this is from jaycar they're about $15 each

Datasheet - http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/2576.pdf

  • 1 month later...

so i gave this a go over the last couple weeks, and i must say it was a bit trickier than i first thought..

but after all i think it turned out quite well..

ps. stay away from cheap ebay led's

post-72514-0-90636700-1316426645_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

so i gave this a go over the last couple weeks, and i must say it was a bit trickier than i first thought..

but after all i think it turned out quite well..

ps. stay away from cheap ebay led's

post-72514-0-90636700-1316426645_thumb.jpg

nice man

  • 1 month later...

Me and my mate gave this a try today just doing the rear middle brake light. we got it all working fine but then when we put it all back together it wouldnt come on and niether will the other rear brake lights. any ideas?

PM sent tom....

But for others if this happen then you need to understand some fault finding steps.

If an open circuit happens ie a LED blows....it will not affect the other lights.

If a short happens you will blow either the brake light or tail light (potentially on headlight circuit).

If this happens....

Plug left tail light assembly in turn on tail light then hit brake light. If this lights up then....

Unplug left tail light assembly and plug in right side repeat as per the left side....

unplug right side and plug in centre tail light and hit the brake....

Whichever blows the fuse means that circuit has a short in either the input wiring or when you have put it back together a short has happened, just pull it apart and check/insulate your wiring where need be.

  • 7 months later...

hey

awesome write up

im thinking about doing this just want to know if you had a link to LEDs you got and anything like that

and would all the resistors and all that work with 8000mcd and not the 4000mcd

thank you so much

  • 1 month later...

My attempt at Nismo style LED tail lights. Nearly melted part of a housing!!! lol.

4000MCD from jaycar. Only outer LEDs get brighter for braking as per factory.

I also have a center brake light kit ready to go.

post-12712-0-60343200-1347798982_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-31918500-1347798984_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-09393400-1347798986_thumb.jpg

post-12712-0-65329500-1347798987_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-24878200-1347798989_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-36934200-1347798990_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-98028700-1347798991_thumb.jpg

I will probably do the indicator as well once I source some orange LEDs and fit a resistor to load up the circuit to avoid the blown globe fast flash issues...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Big single, and seqy. #sorted
    • The R32 suffers from an instrument binnacle that is uncomfortably close to the design of a VN Commodore's. But beyond that, the layout of the rest of everything, and the materials (ie the vinyl coverings on dash, armrest, etc) are acceptable, and the patterns on the fabrics are not as blergh as those in the R33. And R33 seats are....quite unattractive. I know it's only small details there, but I reckon the R33 got worse than the 32. But the big blergh is the overall shape of the dash on the R33. It's just has that whole Maxima/Pulsar sort of look to it. Nothing special at all. Generic Nissan sedan. Whereas, at least the R32 dash/binnacle was different. Less a wide expanse of boringly curved plastic. More a "cockpit" sort of look, even if nowhere near to the degree that the A90 Supras got. R34 seats look good on their own, until you realise that they are indistinguishable from the shape and fabric on 70 other Japanese cars. And the foam bolsters on them suffer even worse than the earlier cars. Other than that I don't really have an opinion the rest of the R34 interior. I took the bits of the R34 I wanted (brakes and engine) and added them to the best external appearance Skyline in the modern era (the 32). So nyerr!
    • Can I be your first customer? I would like hard lines done for the fuel system, 8AN up and 8AN back and the underside wire wheeled and coated (brush or sprayed) with that black tar shit.
    • Speak for yourself, I love the R33 interior. 32 is blergh. I like the 34 interior too. Then you start getting much newer in most cars and they all turn back to blergh. 馃槢
    • 500-600hp into a RB is already 'sinking endless amounts of money' into an engine. Especially a 30 year old engine. Unfortunately this is the RB Game. Considering stock power (or at least stock components) will do ~360whp on 98 by simply turning up the boost on the stock gear on a RB26, that would be where I'd say the cutoff point for "sinking endless amounts of money into the engine" Cause to even do this reliably you'd probably need to replace all the bits anyway cause they're old, starting your sinking journey anyway. I reckon the least painful way is rebuilding the engine to make 50hp over stock lol. The 'plan your ownership around a rebuild' was a common saying 15 years ago.
  • Create New...