Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perspex sucks!!! I got it from bunnings.

If you can get polycarbonate/lexan, that material is less likey to shatter.

I cut it with a bandsaw at bashers workshop, the inside ring, I just drilled a crap load of holes with drill then used the drill to cut between the holes.

Then just gave it a quick file. It's rough, but beats paying $1200+ for nismo's.

Cost:

housings $250 (I didn't want to pull mine apart)

perspex $35

90 LEDs $78 (jaycar electronics)

resistors and diodes $4

silicone $12

I'm hoping the will be bright enough! In hindsight I should of tried the brake lights in the sun to check brightness....

Thanks for the break down.

I've got plenty of housings which is good :D

Where did you buy the LEDs?

My usual spot for random things is eBay, but someone recommended in the thread not to.

So cheap on there.

What MCD LEDs did you go for? - you're hoping they're bright enough! Let me know haha.

From jaycar, and they are 4000MCD.

Lol, I put in in the last page of my post....

Cool, yeah I had a brief look in ebay..meh

My tip for the day is keep an eye on the oven, if you smell plastic....RUN lolz!!!!

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I see you printed the circuit boards for your LED Taillight conversion was it difficult?

http://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=4694490&postcount=21

dsc00766.jpg

Can you make some for the R34?

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Making good boards like this is pretty easy if you have the right tools ,

Sneaky trick running 3 LED's rather than 4 in each string allowing the brightness level between Tail and Stop to be a reasonable contrast.

I'll be placing some LED's up the rear pillar on my Axis this weekend if I'm not on the road, so I had best take some pictures as well :)

.

Edited by MozzMann

i was thinking about doing it mass produced wise, had the patterns all stored in the cutter and everything and and even have a 70% finished set sittign in my room with male adapters for the factory plugs.. so much CBF though

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Has anyone used Red LEDs instead of the clear ones in their tail lights?

The current prices at Jaycar are -

White waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $1.90/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $190

Red waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $0.99/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $99

(correct me if I'm wrong)

My understanding is that only the red light produced from a white LED is going to pass through the stock red tail light lense. Where a higher percentage of light from a red LED will will pass through the red lense.

So in saying that, would a red LED should be perfectly fine behind a red lense?

  • 1 month later...

Has anyone used Red LEDs instead of the clear ones in their tail lights?

The current prices at Jaycar are -

White waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $1.90/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $190

Red waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $0.99/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $99

(correct me if I'm wrong)

My understanding is that only the red light produced from a white LED is going to pass through the stock red tail light lense. Where a higher percentage of light from a red LED will will pass through the red lense.

So in saying that, would a red LED should be perfectly fine behind a red lense?

Any update on your LED DIY?

IME using white leds behind a red filter will give a pinkish red. Its not a proper brake light colour at all. Much better to use red leds in the first place.

Also those prices at jaycar are criminal. No way is a single 5mm led worth $1.90 per led (bulk price too!). I dont even bother with jaycar anymore unless there is a single item I need right away, the prices are far too high.

I have found regular lensed leds to be quite reliable from china off ebay. We're talking 100 of them for about $2. As long as you drive them conservatively, perhaps <50% of their rated current, they should be fine for many years.

I have never had a regular lensed led start flickering (and eventually fail), unlike SMD leds which I have seen many times.

I suspect part of the issue is that ebay led light packages come with too low resistors, and so the lights are being driven harder to be made brighter, but at the expense that a higher % of them will fail.

Any update on your LED DIY?

No not as of yet, car has been at my mechanics for many months so I haven't had a chance to get started on it. I will be doing a Nismo R34 led layout on an early tail light (afterburner) HR31 Skyline.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

No not as of yet, car has been at my mechanics for many months so I haven't had a chance to get started on it. I will be doing a Nismo R34 led layout on an early tail light (afterburner) HR31 Skyline.

Let me know when you start working on this R34 LED project

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...