Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im wanting to buy a brand new CAS since Ive had enough of going through 3 second hand ones in the past year. Now I found this add on ebay claiming that pretty much anything pre r34 with the exception of the late model r33s have the same CAS. Even though the part number on my original CAS is 23731-02u11 where as the one he is selling is 23731-08u00.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-OEM-CRANK-ANGLE-SENSOR-R32-R33-GTR-SKYLINE-GTST-/140565858146?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ba60c762#ht_718wt_932

Also has anyone got any places to buy them from besides nissan for maybe cheaper and what is the price from nissan if anyone knows.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371069-cas-question/
Share on other sites

Yes, we don't bother buying second hand units any more. We buy brand new sensors and rebuild the original unit with the new sensor.

So basically you just use your old alloy housing and put a new sensor inside and new bearings - hey presto - new CAS

Costs about $200-$250 depending on a couple of things

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371069-cas-question/#findComment-5915745
Share on other sites

petroject sell them brand new. (in a mitsubishi box) buy the time you pull the old one apart and if the bearinga are ok, its best to just replace with a whole new one. there are a number of differant part numbers as they changed manufacturers from hitachi to mitsubishi..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371069-cas-question/#findComment-5917126
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everything I found online said never use it because it'll dramatically reduce belt lifespan.  No, but I have seen excessive v-belt tension cause the audible bearing noise from excessive radial load in things like alternators. So don't overdo it. Ideally you set it to manufacturer spec using a proper belt tension guage. I tried the "clicker" type gauges but those cheap things are trash. They read way too low even when you're careful.
    • This is kind of where I've ended up for the most part. It's easier for me, easier for shops that don't have to deal with my weird criteria/picky standards, etc.
    • Will do. Suprised if it's not the starter motor considering it's 30 years old. Will get a volt meter though. Battery is close to new.   Cheers for your help, always appreciated.
    • This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.
    • I just checked my belt, it wasn't super loose but I could bend it past 90 degrees a small amount so I tightened it up and for the first time ever my car didn't crank first time, had to crank it again lol. Don't know if that was because I tightened the belt or if it's my starter motor going out (been having slow starts for some time). Coulda also been when I was recording I didn't crank the key properly and it didn't save the recording lol.   Is that a thing if you overtighten a belt it struggles to start?
×
×
  • Create New...