Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was speaking to Paul from Red R Racing he measured (cc)the rb 25 det head from my customers build while i was on the phone to him and he knows RB26 heads like the back of his hand.

OP exactly which pistons did u get from spool?

  • Replies 146
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Comp test was 160 odd across the board...Was promising before I had talked to Paul.

Paul says that after doing a back calculation using those pistons with the head I have (obviously with some small assumptions) the static C.R. will be sitting in the 10's.

The only reason I bought those pistons was on the basis that those heads are listed to cc up 62-66cc between the three - as listed in the RB30DOHC pdf. Hence the C.R. should have been around 9.

Pretty upset that its come this far to find this information out...

That said, I still have options.

Timing is apparently being checked tomorrow, however, after talking to Paul - I doubt this will make a difference.

Rob82

Im unsure how they tested the CAS as I was not there. However, I suggested the CAS could have been a problem but they replied by saying that if that were the case they would have been getting funky readings/timing all over the rev range (which they weren't apparently).

Problem is, If we do lock in 20 deg timing and take it to 6000RPM it will PING/KNOCK its head off and possibly cause damage. Something which I dont want to do. I will be suggesting the CAS sensor/assembly having an issue again.

Thanks, the setup is pretty much identical to Cubes RB30 setup. In fact, it is his turbo which is bolted on the side of my motor :) I got to drive it between the tuners and the builder/assemblers. Made 207RWKW with 7-8 degrees worth of timing but still feels SOOOO responsive!

As a result of the answer in bold - Time to get a second opinion if he was referring to the timing read out from the ecu when tuning. :S

The timing the tuner see's via his tuning software will not show the CAS swaying timing about. The only way to check it is as Rob82 suggested, in idle, timing light and bring rev's up. No load so it won't ping.

Comp ratio - 160psi isn't excessive. Don't go ripping pistons out just yet. I'm almost willing to put $$ on they are not the problem.

R32 RB25DE heads always cc up around the low to mid 60cc's. RB25 Neo heads are the only ones I remember ccing up in the 50's.

My money would be on the CAS or you have some sensitive knock sensors and the tuner is going off them. Its a worry if he is. :P

RB26 ones went in with a 26pfc and all was good.

On a second note - you are running a catch can setup?

No catch can setup.

Tuner said it was an audible knock. I.e. didnt need a sensor to hear it! Knock sensor reflected this aswell.

Im soooooo confused right about now!

Is it breathing?

And get a leak down test done.

Pull the recirc off and see how she's breathing.

I used to run two catch cans to keep it stockish looking. One either side using the std plumbing - the PCV was blocked off but connected to make it look legit.

Comp test was 160 odd across the board...

That is a perfectly normal compression, or a tiny bit high if it has had no run in.

You need to look at simple things liek base timing and cam timing before pulling the motor out.

Motor has been "run" in on the Dyno for about 30mins to bed the rings and bores in. Still on thick castor oil until 1000km.

Cams are all standard as well as cam gears. So no real adjustment there.

Spoke to a couple of blokes last nite who have built pretty much the same setup as me except pistons. Can anyone confirm the head cc of an R32 RB25DE?

I would go somewhere else and get a second opinion.I dont know how the motor was built but to be tuning it for full load on a 30 minute old engine seems a little odd to me. Please correct me if its only a base tune for the run in process that they are doing.

Are they sure that its knock they are hearing and not an engine noise?

Edited by ido09s

As for the tune- I believe it was a "power" tune. After that, drive for 1000km, not too harsher driving, then drop old castor oil and put synthetic in. I may stand to be corrected tho so don't take it all as gospel.

Edited by R32Abuser

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...