Jump to content
SAU Community

A Few Air Compressor And Spray Gun Questions...

Peter

By Peter,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Peter Community Regular

Peter

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone!

So I am thinking of getting an air compressor to (mainly) paint the damaged door of my R33, touch up my spoiler and front bar, and a few other things around the car. This will be the main reason for purchasing it, but I am also thinking of using it around the house, just to do some light duties, such as spraying the fence, inflating tyres etc.

I didn't want to get one that was too expensive, so I have been looking at the ones available through Supercheap, Malz and Bunnings.

They seem to all be around the same size and same price - this is what I am considering at the moment - which one would be the best for me?

Supercheap

$199

- Black Ridge 2.5HP Hi Flow Compressor

- 40L tank

- 115 PSI max operating pressure

- 200L/min free air delivery

or

$119

- Black Ridge 2.5HP Direct Drive Compressor

- 40L tank

-115 PSI max operating pressure

- 120L/min free air delivery

Malz

$149

- SRT Air 2.5HP Direct Drive Compressor

- 40L tank

- 125 PSI max operating pressure

- 131L/min free air delivery

Bunnings

$199

Project Air 2.5HP Direct Drive Compressor

- 2 x 10L tanks

- No other specs

or

$137

Project Air 2.5HP Direct Drive Compressor

- 40L tank

- No other specs

Also, with regards to spray guns, do I go for a:

- low pressure spray gun?

- high pressure spray gun?

- gravity fed spray gun?

Thanks for your help and feedback,

Pete

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

the top ones the only one that will really flow enough air for painting..problem is at 200lt per minute and a 40lt tank it is empty in 12 seconds :yes: ..

I have one and its a noisey POS but it does do the job..I wouldnt want to paint a whole car with it but for short bursts for a few minutes its fine

either kind of paint gun will work as long as its high pressure..

I usually just paint with cans though its much easier and you can get a good finish..

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

I'd go for the gravity gun for what you're doing, unfortunately I'm not familiar with how well the cheaper brands fair as I always used Graco units, a pressure pot unit is really only used for thicker products (industrial epoxy coatings etc etc) and wouldn't give as good a finish as the gravity gun and it's really easy to overbuild the coating if you've never used one.

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

you want a compressor with some warranty on it. All the cheap ones break sooner rather than later. Go price up a decent one and look at what the differences are. You also need water traps, connections, hose etc, so it all adds up.

The gun should be gravity fed, and a HVLP (high volume, low pressure) to spray the car with. Best bet is to also have a look around at the various types as buying the cheapest can also mean headaches. Different sized needles are needed for different types of media, like undercoat, primer and paint. Speak to the paint supplier as they can offer the best advice for the paint you want to eventually use.

gtr fan Experienced

gtr fan

Posted
Posted

$199

- Black Ridge 2.5HP Hi Flow Compressor

- 40L tank

- 115 PSI max operating pressure

- 200L/min free air delivery

I have this compressor. It is good to use but like someone said it does empty the tank quickly, which can be annoying. But for short busrts of work it is good.

However trying to cut through something strong can pose an issue. Use an electric angle grinder for this.

Peter Community Regular

Peter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the replies!

I have taken everything into account and as recommended will look around at what other compressors are avaiable, to see if increasing the price slightly makes a huge difference. I'll also speak to a paint shop to see what they recommend regarding the type of gun and the size of needle required.

Will post up what I find out.

Thanks again - great advice, and I'm glad I didn't just go straight in and buy something that wouldn't do the job.

Cheers,

Peter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...