Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My first dream car needs to go! Prospect of moving to the US for work and being a home owner (soon to be two homes) I need the funds to be freed up for the time being.

LOTS of spare parts can be included in the sale as a package deal. Price is $27,900 and is negociable... if you like what you see make an offer.

Carsales ad can be seen here... here is a copy of the details. http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=10921874&__Ntt=r33&__Qpb=1&__Dx=mode matchany&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&keywords=r33&__N=1216 1246 1247 1252 1282 4294963593 4294963846 901&__Ntx=mode matchallpartial&seot=1&__Ntk=CarAll&silo=1011&Cr=3&__Nne=15&trecs=67&__D=r33&__sid=1313757F270A

First owner in Australia purchased from Synergy Motorsports in 2008 and has been looked after and driven by meticulous owner. Unique ?Wine Red? colour and one of the only R33 GTR?s in Adelaide in this colour!

Serviced every 5000kms with the best oils; Redline gear oils in front, rear differentials and gearbox, Nissan Matic-D in transfer case and Motul 300V Chrono for engine. All work done by professionals.

Car is tuned personally by Brett West at Graham West Workshops, first R33 GTR in SA to have the top of the line Vipec V88 ECU (better than Motec) which has been fine-tuned since fitted for the best drivability and performance. ECU still uses OEM factory sensors, drives like a new car and very efficient with 500km (10-11L/100km) per full tank of BP98 (only ever run on BP98) and has a healthy 250kW (11psi) at all four wheels on 4WD dyno.

Over $15,000 spent over the last 3 years on modifications for reliability and drivability. List of modifications include the following:

- Bilstein PSS9 adjustable shock absorbers (kit alone over $4k)

- All OEM suspension bushes including subframe bushes (huge job!) replaced with polyurethane (Superpro)

- All ball joints replaced with OEM Nissan items

- All under-body components sand blasted, primed and painted black (2-pak)

- All bolts, fasters, washers, nuts re-plated (gold/zinc passivate... will last lifetime!)

- Upgraded swaybars (Whiteline)

- Upgraded NPC single plate clutch with billet machined chromoly flywheel; stock pedal feel, easy to drive but will never slip (less than 10,000kms)

- Kuhmo KU36 semi slick tyres (less than 15,000kms)

- Vipec V88 ECU tuned personally by Brett West, car gets run on dyno and checked every few months to ensure everything is ok

- Bosch 044 fuel pump mounted in tank controlled by Vipec V88 so at idle there is no noise from fuel pump

- Free flowing exhaust; stock exhaust also included in sale

Car is not defectable! Have had positive comments from Police officers on the originality of the car.

This is a real enthusiast?s car it has never been driven hard on the street, never been raced at the track and very well looked after. Suit someone who wants to buy their first GTR or a older buyer/collector and wants something comfortable and reliable. All modifications to the car have been done so to improve reliability and handling. There are cars in the same price bracket with more power but guaranteed they will not handle as good or will they be as reliable!

Body is great and is all original. Interior is brilliant for its age and is also all original and all electrics work perfectly.

A regretful sale as this was my first ?dream? car but time to move onto other things .Buyer will not be disappointed and car is priced to sell, slightly negotiable.

Many spare parts can be included in selling of the car i.e. as a package

- Engine block

- Cylinder head

- Nissan R34 GTR 6-speed Getrag gearbox with Nissan Motorsport twin plate clutch (combination good for 800hp)

- CWP gears for front and rear differentials; Brand new from Nissan!!!!!

- Rear mech. 2-way differential

- Front differential (with sump)

- Stock clutch and flywheel

- Heater core

- BOV piping

- Wiper motor

- Air-con compressor

- Turbo manifolds

- Wiring looms

- Steering column

- ... plus many other parts!!!!!

Edited by bigmikespec
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371178-r33-skyline-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Will also consider selling as complete rolling shell minus engine or minus engine and gearbox at a reduced price, contact via phone or PM.

Hard work has already been done to under body, bushings and top of the line Bilstein PSS9's. Big power forged engine can be dropped straight in for a street/track car!

Ok lads... after some feedback, what am I doing wrong? There has been little to no interest. This is a quality GTR here that has been looked after by a very fussy person (me) with a genuine reason for sale.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...