Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic states, I know quite a few of you would understand the frustration in trying to maintain one.

I am wanting to get just the front lip spray painted and properly restored (there are some small surface cracks - nothing major).

Does anyone know a decent panel beater around the SE suburbs who can do it? One place quoted my $750 (but that was including my front bumper as well).

What's the most anyone has spent on getting it sorted?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371276-bloody-black-front-lip/
Share on other sites

Try DT Panels in Springvale and ask for Vu, can vouch for their quality of work.

My experience wasn't so good (went once, and went back again to have it fixed). I won't go back because the 2nd repair wasn't very good either.

My experience wasn't so good (went once, and went back again to have it fixed). I won't go back because the 2nd repair wasn't very good either.

ditto, I had a kit and spoiler put on and spoiler was on crooked. So had to take it off and do it properly myself. Hows the saying go? if you want it done right do it yourself?

IMHO. Because its black and just a front lip and not a major panel, I would do a DIY job. Buy quality spary paints. Sand back slightly, 2x coats of primer, 3x coats of black. Do it all in a garage, you would be laughing. Most it will cost you will be around $50.00 and a couple of hours across two afternoons. Especially since it's a part that is "sacrificial", getting it done professionally is a waste.

I bought a carbon front from PSI parts, looks the business and seems to be a lot more rigid than the standard lip. cost me around 500 and I fitted it myself.

http://www.psiparts.com.au/detail.htm?ProductID=R33R%2DJUFL%2DCF

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...