Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dsc00205bwop.jpg

As the title states, I'm selling my 1994 R33 Gtst RB25.

Looking for $8,250 which is much less than the average for a car of this sort and year (I'll get to some reasons why, after details)

Details:

Transmission – 5 Speed Manual

Body – 4 Door 4 Seat Sedan

Kilometres – 147,800

Colour – Gunmetal Grey

Interior Color – Grey

Drive type – Rear

Reg expiry –4th October 2011

Engine – 6 Cylinder Petrol Intercooled Turbo 2.5L (2498cc)

ECU - Microtech LT-12 (original also included in sale)

- Slotted and drilled rotors front and rear with new pads.

- Genuine Greddy front mount intercooler kit

- GTR fuel pump

- Splitfire ignition coil packs

- Tein fully adjustable coilovers

- 3in exhuast from turbo back (new muffler as of Feb 2011)

- Turbo rebuilt and high-flowed

- 400r bodykit (only the front) and nismo side skirts

- JVC mp3 cd player and speakers

- K&N pod filter with silicon inlet pipe

-18'' Zepter 3piece mesh wheels with nice staggered dish

- Rear tyres (BRAND NEW) 265x35x18 and 245x45x18 front

More Pictures:

skyline002.jpg

skyline021.jpg

skyline020.jpg

skyline013.jpg

The good:

Overall the car's body is in good condition, some scuffing of the paint on the outside (mainly just on the spoiler and parts of the body kit) and minor scratches but nothing noticable, no rust, the car itself looks very neat and tidy inside and out (as you can see from the pictures), a minor cigarette burn can be seen on the drivers side seat and floor from a previous owner (I dont smoke and there is none of that noticeable 'smoker smell' in the car at all).

Last owner replaced the clutch, pressure plate, clutch master, thrust bearing, slave cylinders and main bearing. Ive recently had the car tuned + ECU dyno tuning and a new exhaust fitten in Feb of this year. Very recently had brand new rear tyres put on (theyve done less than 500km so far)

Im also throwing in all the original parts I have, the original ECU, a 2nd front bumper, original floor mats and steering wheel and the stock muffler.

The bad:

The car can have issue idling when its cold or during cold weather, seems to be a common skyline issue but I havent gotten around to dealing with it. Runs fine once its had a chance to warm up or if the weather is warm enough in general.

The second issue is the main reason why Im selling, the 2nd gear syncros need to be replaced, and I havent the time or money to do that at the moment. The car is still drivable and all the other gears are fine, but its definitely not ideal. This is the main reason why Im selling and Ive chopped a couple of K off the selling price to compensate, if your more mechanically skilled than me it shouldnt be a huge issue to deal with.

Im looking to sell to someone who has the time and money to look after this car because I unfortunately dont anymore

Currently running 2 cars + being a Uni student and Im not working all that much + moving to town in the very near future, so its getting too much to run both this car and my other one.

I live in the Adelaide hills, near Mt Barker, so thats the best place to meet if you want to check out the car. From the 25th of July onwards Im back at uni, so meeting times will be difficult, but I'll do my best to work something out since Id really like a quick sale.

Anyone interested (serious buyers only please) contact me via PM on this forum, email or phone my mobile listed below.

Also feel free to post in this thread with any further questions etc.

Mobile: 04-07092930 (phone anytime, if I dont answer please leave a message and Ill get back to you asap.)

Email: [email protected]

Cheers,

Alex

Edited by LexDelta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371287-selling-r33-gtst-1994-sa-8250/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Seems like I cant edit the original post, which is a bit of a pain.

Either way, heres a couple more pictures. Feel free to email me or phone me about the car. Ask questions - make an offer!

Im open to negotiation.

pic3o.jpg

pic2g.jpg

pic4dq.jpg

pic1fn.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...