Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you have a power just monitor injduty and TPS

replacate

replacate with gate wired open

i would be gobsmacked if duty was less @ the same TPS with gate wired open

the physics do not support it

about 10 years ago a friend did this. I think he had a turbo starion at the time. He poped the clip off the actuator/flap

and noticed better economy. From memory the car was basically standard. It wasnt just a little bit of economy, it was

pretty significant. He drove it around like that for atleast 6 months.

It got me interested so I did the same to my car at the time. Quite funny driving around. Nearly like NA but it will

still pull really low boost up top. You can also hear the turbo trying to spool driving around but no boost. I noticed

better economy too but got jack of it and didnt last a week till the clip found its way back on.

regarding your switch/circuit. There are water injection parts that people sell off the shelf that when the systems

pressure switch detects a clog it will N/O or N/C to a safty trigger (solenoid) linked to your wastegate control to run wastegate

pressure. They also use it for low level saftey

imo go for it, wont be hard or time consuming to knock up. you will notice better economy but it might drive like shit.

The earlier your system produces boost the more fuel to be saved but also has the biggest impact on driveability

You would really need a tune to make use of it.

What everyone has been trying to tell you is that compression ratios, combustions chambers, cam profiles and ECU maps have all been set up for a TURBO. The best compromise you could get would be to run an ECU with dual map functions and actually TUNE the thing for no boost.

Thanks for everyones input...

I had a look this afternoon and ive got the components on the shelf at work so it wont really cost me a cent to try... I understand about the compression ratios, cams, ECU maps ect being set up for a factory turbo setting. I guess ill give it a crack and see how it goes over full tank of city driving and the best thing will be if you want to give the car a boot here or there it would simply be the flick of a switch and up goes the boost...

Cheers

A better approach to better fuel economy would be to buy a wideband O2 sensor that can output a narrowband signal, wire it in place of the standard O2. Get a NIStune and run O2 feedback across the whole map.

I will say however, if this is for your Stagea, it will be the biggest pig ever.. without VCT to help bring my laggy highflow on boost the heavy assed wagon was absolutely terrible to drive around town. Terrible.

And my fuel economy wasn't better at all. It was much worse because the engine was labouring trying to haul the wagon around when it really needed a bit of boost to help.

Or.. buy a 4cyl N/A daily.

so so many negative people! try it and see and report back your results, its better to do that than give these cocks the chance to spout off, in the real world they would just get a punch in the mouth and be on their way but this is the internet and the cock is free to shxit on everyone, I believe the idea is at least worth trying, best of luck with it!

I don't see the point in messing around and making your car go like a slug just to save a few penny's. It's already been said but i'll say it again... control your right foot better, that also goes with things like how you use your gears and how you decelerate.

Controlling how you bring on power with your right foot along with short shifting and letting the engine over run on deceleration are a sure fire way to save a good amount of fuel and not have to screw around and deal with a sluggish car.

If you're that desperate for fuel economy the word "hatchback" comes to mind.

The money saved on fuel (if web possible) set up like this, you will waste constantly changing plugs from being fouled, you'll also waste money on getting the soot cleaned from the rear bar. Not to mention since the car will be a slug, you'll be using more throttle to get going etc.

In the end, I will be a big useless waste if money. And, you bought a car that is powerful, to make it not powerful.

It's like calling a hooker over, to not have sex with her.

Tell Me, why didn't you just buy a toyota prius?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
    • Ah ok, yeah it should be flat, I believe the r34 battery tray has these 3 bumps in them they makes it line up and everything is flat, don't see how it would tilt if everything is secured.
×
×
  • Create New...