Jump to content
SAU Community

My R34 Gtr Tuned Yesterday At Dart Automotive

livewire

By livewire,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone. Took my car down to Sydney Monday morning to Dart Automotive in Punchbowl to have bigger injectors and Power FC fitted as well and then tuned the Next morning. they also did a spark plug and oil change for me and I cannot speak highly enough of the good, friendly, honest, well priced service Jim and the guys at Dart gave me. I had to book my car in at very short notice (last Wednesday) due to another unnamed workshop stuffing me around at the last minute and having already booked non refundable accommodation in Sydney. I am very very pleased with the results of the tune etc. The car had only 3" apexi exhaust from dump pipes back and hks electronic boost controller, factory fuel pump, factory airbox and factory turbos when I took the car to Dart and it made 179.9kw at 4 wheels. After injectors and power fc were fitted (still using factory fuel pump, airbox and turbos) the car now makes 280.1kw at 4 wheels at 1.15bar. I am more than happy with the results and it is a totally different car to drive. I used well over a quarter of a tank of fuel less on the drive home too. I also had an upgrade fuel pump to fit but Jim said I'd be wasting my money with as the factory GTR pumps are very very good and capable of well over 300KW which he could easily have said I needed as it would mean more money for him to fit. I would recommend these guys to anyone and will definatly go back to them for any future upgrades.

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Did they comment on the reliability of the turbos at that boost, and what can happen if they fail? If not, they did not do the right thing by you IMO.

Did he offer an opinion about the reliability of 10-12 year old fuel pumps?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Nice result after all the messing around you had!

As I said via pm tho, that much boost is asking for a dead motor for the sake of 20rwkw, I strongly urge you to consider lowering the boost to a safer level for longevity of turbos, and in turn your motor

ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

I have known Jim for many many years and thought he was a little smarter than that

1.15 bar of boost on a ceramic turbo is destined for failure.

Give him a call and make sure thats what it was actually tuned for as the colder weather may very well be causing it to over boost out on the road.

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oops, correction... car was making 219.9kw at the wheels before computer and injectors. And the car was running 1.15 bar on high boost setting when I bought it and who knows how long for as exhaust and boost controller were on the car in lap

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oops, accidentally pressed add reply before I was finished. Exhaust and boost controller were on the car in Japan. And yes he did mention the fuel pump being 12 years old and said that if need be he would put my walbro pump in but factory pump is performing fine and probably better than the walbro anyway. As for the boost I'll call Jim and ask him but I imagine he has done enough tuning to not do something that's gonna cause damage.

sucram Rising Star

sucram

Posted
Posted

wouldnt worry about your boost too much. Its a long on going debate.

I would comment on how long my car ran standard r32 turbos for (at more then 1 bar) which arnt as good as r34 units but it would just turn into a shit fight.

Basically, trust your tuner, hes probably done a lot more cars for a lot longer then keyboard tuners on here

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

im running 1.2 bar on stock R34 GTR turbos & made 247rwkw~

it lasted around 6 months (still going tho) just the seals are letting go and oil is leaking through and ending up leaking out of the air filter :(

gonna lower it down to 1bar till i save up enough $$ for -7 or -9s lol

good luck, i hope it doesn't blow a comp or turbine wheel on ya.

id change the stock fuel pump to something new. you can sell off the stock pump quite easily also.

^^ agreed, a fellow member on this forum and sau nsw member ran 21psi and only pulled 262 or so @ CRD.

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well I guess everyone is entitled to they're opinions but I'm happy with the way the car is. Jims dyno is apparently de-tuned 20 kw for race cars or something so power readings are 20kw less on paper than actual power figure. So car On paper was 199kw before and 261kw after but Jim said actual power is about 280kw. Totally different car to drive and big difference In power. I can definatly feel the increase and was told car could have been pushed even further but he kept it safe. The power figures are on paper And I will post them soon. I'm not saying anyone's opinions or suggestions are wrong. I'm happy with the car and Jim definatly seems to know what he's talking about and doing so I have faith in his work aswell as researching positive feedback from others who have used dart before I went there.

ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

Its one thing to be happy with the car now, but how happy are you going to be when the turbo falls apart...

I have seen R34's make 280rwkw on standard turbos whilst i was at Advan. Cant recall how much boost it was running though as it was many years ago.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

260 is much more believeable, Sif claim it was 280 if the dyno said 260!

And to surcam, who cares how much you were running?

Have a read of the engine fail thread, or other threads about dead 26s

Whilst the turbos might not fail in every single case, some might be fine for years, there is enough information & users to prove turbo failure can kill your motor if they let go.

Bit silly IMO to want that extra 10-20rwkw with the extra 2-3psi when it could cost you a 5-8k rebuild, not worth the risk at all. But then some places don't care if it kills a motor in 2 years time as they can then blame wear and tear, and make a lazy 2-3k outta a motor rebuild etc.

(DISCLAIMER before e-rage: Not saying this is what Dart have done)

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

It's both shaft speed and heat. Also #6 runs a bit hotter and hence its usually the rear that goes.

I wonder what shaft speed is influenced by...

But riddle me this, its a 10+yr old car with a history you can't say was always say was safe... How do you know it will be "fine".

Is it worth that rebuild gamble?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • GTSBoy
      AC not coming from top vents

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...