Power On A Budget

[ido09s]

I wasnt the one who told him to buy a Mazda, Rolls was, i just agreed with him. I dont recall ever saying to put a 13B20B in a Skyline.....

If you want a cheap 10, get a 900kg mazda with a 300kw turbo rotary, plenty getting around for ~$5k, just need some slicks and you'll do it, really want a cage though, those things are tin cans.

Edited July 26, 2011 by ido09s

[ARTZ]

rolls is always starting trouble

[Rolls]

at least they dont have oil pump issues.

[GODZILLA-GTR]

buy a rotary, wind boost tee right open, drop clutch on limiter

[ARTZ]

so why dont you have one

[Rolls]

so why dont you have one

facepalm

everyone else realised I have been trolling the past 2 pages

[ARTZ]

did not

[GTScotT]

You've never done this? most reliable method imo

I dont know if your being sarcastic or not but I dont see a problem in comparing a video of a car driving to another one...

I mean Ive based turbo selection on best motoring videos and other peoples in car drag videos etc...

Ive also videod cars 0-200kph to prove to long distance friends its performance. Provided its videos on level ground and with live sound etc I dont see the problem.

[Cassbo]

thats it exactly Rolls, you can put a LS1 in a mazda but you wouldnt put a rotor in commodore

Mazda put rotaries into Kingswoods

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Roadpacer_AP

[Rolls]

Mazda put rotaries into Kingswoods

http://en.wikipedia....da_Roadpacer_AP

probably the worst car ever hahaha, a stock port 13b with 3 speed auto in a heavy as car, completely mismatched and just terrible.

[AngryRB]

ok well the ones I have known had issues but they were older non injected ones..anyway not denying the rotary as a performer, but I dont think they are any better than a well setup 8.

And aside from traffic light races what else is it good for, a V8 can be use for a variety of purposes in just about anycar of any weight..a rotary is fast in a lightweight car and is good for nothing else..

Also a brand new V8 crate engine is about 6k as well and is easily replalced or fixed at any mechanic anywhere, your rotary f**ks up anywhere other than a major city and your stuck shipping parts everywhere..

The rx7 is awesome but that is all...a V8 makes any car awesome and im sorry if this offends you but anyone that denies the LS chev engine its glory is more of a knuckledragger than those they claim to be superior to..

the only rotary ive been in was a series 4 RX7 with 13B turbo, was the most disappointing car ive ever been in, in auto form it was a nightmare, got dragged off by just bout anything, after a manual conversion it was hard work to do a 15.8 but at the same time it drank 18L/100kms, and that was driving it to 2000rpm in each gear...

Must take alot to get a rotary moving, the LS chev on the other hand pretty much is ahead without touching it, a standard r33 is behind to start with, what a crappy turbo it has to begin with..

Hard to beat a 6.0L V8 , if they go buy a blower then we'll have to go borrow Castrol Edges GTR, then can sort them out. lol..

Edited July 26, 2011 by SliverS2

[XKLABA]

NO2 kit and if you still get beaten you can undo the hose such the gas and you won't feel so bad......

seriously i ran a 5.7 vyss at WSID with just bolton stuff, over rad intake, cam, exhaust and tune on worn mt et streets with no nos or boost and it ran 11.7, scared the shit out of me as he got off line first

[cannabiscorpse]

Correct me if im wrong, but isnt one of the problems with a rotary engine is lack of torque? Hence the reason they are in light vehicles, and would suck in a commodore.

And as far as i have known, rotors are known for their lack of reliability, you have to love getting your hands dirty to own one. I have had plenty of mates with rotories over the years, and yes they hammer, however everyone ive known with one has never used it as a daily, and has spoken of the lack of reliability. No denying that most are plenty fun though.

[Nee-san]

Sigh, how about the 101st weiner dick cavalry dismount your high horses and just give the guy some decent advice ?

By all means, feel free to attach the caveat of, please drive safely or somesuch at the end of your post but these long winded boring whinging posts about how person X is basically satan because they do Y are just f**king pointless, achieve nothing, start flame wars and generally just dilute any good advice that may be collected in such a post.

The dude did say on a private road, this is in the internet where you either take something at face value or not at all, too many wizards in the land of Oz ?

There is No spoon.

[Hanaldo]

Too many anecdotes in your post ^_^

[Rolls]

Correct me if im wrong, but isnt one of the problems with a rotary engine is lack of torque? Hence the reason they are in light vehicles, and would suck in a commodore.

And as far as i have known, rotors are known for their lack of reliability, you have to love getting your hands dirty to own one. I have had plenty of mates with rotories over the years, and yes they hammer, however everyone ive known with one has never used it as a daily, and has spoken of the lack of reliability. No denying that most are plenty fun though.

[non troll post]

Less torque for the same power means it just makes the power at higher revs, this just means you need a shorter diff ratio to suit, it is not an issue at all providing you gear it to keep in the power band. Lets say you have two cars, both make an average of 200kw over a 3k power band, one makes it from 2-5k, the other makes it at 5-8k, the one making it from 2-5k will make almost double the torque (by definition), but if geared appropriately so they never fall out of this power band (lets assume they slip the clutch on launch) then they will both run exactly the same 1/4 mile time, trap speed and be just as fast everywhere else assuming everything else is the same.

Heavy vehicles need more average power, not more torque, you are mistaken.

Like all performance cars if not taken care of properly they will be unreliable, you can say the same about the skyline with its oil control problems and the thousands of blown up 26s, they honestly are both as unreliable as each other imo.

Also rotaries have an almost perfectly flat torque curve so that means they can have very large power bands, sure you might need to rev it more than a bigger capacity piston engine but most the NA examples will make bucketloads of power from 5k until forever, they will usually hold torque to well over 10k rpm with a big port, the issue is you just can't safely rev a stock motor this high. If built it means they can have quite large power bands, greater than the average ~3k that a turbo skyline has, LS1s usually are closer to 4k.

[/non troll post]

Edited July 26, 2011 by Rolls

[Touge Kyousou]

soooo, u compare ur in car footage to in car footage of other cars in third gear on youtube and come to the conclusion that ur car is faster than theirs that way?

Short of owning that particular car, would i be better comparing dynos? Or maybe just read how it feels? Perhaps i should look up manufacturer specs and work out how fast it'll be with weight, torque, power output, aerodynamic drag, tire rolling resistance, driveline and misc power loss.

Grab a speedo vid of a hyundai excel from 80-140 and another vid of an r35 gt-r doing 80-140.. if you can't work out which is faster... well then you must be blind.

I'm not saying it's definitive but it gives something reasonable to compare to. Like GTScotT mentioned, long as the video is on a flat straight road, it's better than comparing dynos or all the BS talk in this thread imho.

As for the OP, most of the info to cheap power upgrades has already been mentioned in this thread i believe. Just do intake, tbe exhaust, turbotech boost controller, fmic and safc for 170ish rwkw. Get some stuff second hand off forums etc and you should be able to get it all done for under 2k bought, installed and tuned. Gotta shop around for your labour rates too though. If you know you're gonna chase more power later then you'd be taking a different path from the beginning however e.g. you wouldn't buy, install and tune a safc as it'll only need to be ditched later.

[Jeremy93]

Everyone is going on about engine sizes etc, no one is considering weather, driver abilities or how the hell they found a private road to do this "testing" on.

[045HOW]

Everyone is going on about engine sizes etc, no one is considering weather, driver abilities or how the hell they found a private road to do this "testing" on.

he's a fresh turbo owner living on the mean streets of gold coast. there is no private road.

[cannabiscorpse]

[non troll post]

Less torque for the same power means it just makes the power at higher revs, this just means you need a shorter diff ratio to suit, it is not an issue at all providing you gear it to keep in the power band. Lets say you have two cars, both make an average of 200kw over a 3k power band, one makes it from 2-5k, the other makes it at 5-8k, the one making it from 2-5k will make almost double the torque (by definition), but if geared appropriately so they never fall out of this power band (lets assume they slip the clutch on launch) then they will both run exactly the same 1/4 mile time, trap speed and be just as fast everywhere else assuming everything else is the same.

Heavy vehicles need more average power, not more torque, you are mistaken.

Like all performance cars if not taken care of properly they will be unreliable, you can say the same about the skyline with its oil control problems and the thousands of blown up 26s, they honestly are both as unreliable as each other imo.

Also rotaries have an almost perfectly flat torque curve so that means they can have very large power bands, sure you might need to rev it more than a bigger capacity piston engine but most the NA examples will make bucketloads of power from 5k until forever, they will usually hold torque to well over 10k rpm with a big port, the issue is you just can't safely rev a stock motor this high. If built it means they can have quite large power bands, greater than the average ~3k that a turbo skyline has, LS1s usually are closer to 4k.

[/non troll post]

So in other words a rotary isnt necessarily low on torque? It was just always the way i perceived them, but it definitely make sense what you are saying with the power curve. The first rotary i drove revved to something like 11k, and yes you needed to be picky with gears and it had a high gear ratio. That being said, i was 17 and a worked 13b turbo and it scared me quite senseless, so i definitely didnt drive it anywhere near its potential. In no means was i slagging on rotaries, tbh im a fan of anything that makes power and goes fast, regardless of engine type.

I was just of the opinion they were low on torque in comparison, and that they are not really reliable. And i dont disagree with the 26 statement, i have seen plenty of horror stories involving them now too. I will also admit that most of the owners of rotaries i have spoke with, have had plenty of work done to them and dragged them etc.. so that may account for reliability issues.