Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure if this is the right place to post this...

I have a friend who is offering me a pair of original Velo Podium I in perfect condition at a very reasonable price. My only concern about them is that they don't have their FIA stickers on them any more.

Not knowing anything about seats, are these going to be able to get through scrutineering for club sprints?

I've read my CAMS manual of motorsport and can't seem to find anything on the matter.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Unsure on VIC, but when I had my 33 doing nsw sprints they never checked the FIA - only checked if it were bolted and mounted securely.

best thing to do would be before next event, call the clerk of course which would be on the supp regs and ask the question.

even doing door to door in the MX5 at scruitineering they havent checked the seat for FIA etc compliant. (it is though!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/#findComment-5925734
Share on other sites

If it's one of these then you will have no problems, I got mine in a ifre sale when the new model was coming out so it was crazy cheap. The new model is much nicer but also twice what I paid.

I've done a couple track days and some DECAs in it without issues.

The only thing you might want to consider is how narrow the seat is for a given size, I'm 6ft and 80kg so pretty average and it's a nice snug fit for me. If you've got broader hips or a fat ass you might struggle a touch, test it naturally :)

EDIT: If you can, make sure you get the removable back and leg padding. The back one is especially useful and gives better lower back support.

I'm not sure what he's asking for them but as a reference point I paid $500 for mine brand new, though it was a run out and the velo adjustable mounts were extra. I also sw a blue one go on ebay that was basically brand new for $350. Hope that helps.

post-23873-0-31168100-1311289118_thumb.jpg

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/#findComment-5926281
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help guys I think I'll go through with it.

That is the seat dan, the ones I'm looking at are all black with yellow writing but that's the style for sure. I'm 6'5" and 80kg so it fits me perfectly :)

Those prices look about right, I'm looking at 800 for the pair with rails and two pairs of side mount brackets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/#findComment-5926431
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good price then to me. What are they going in? Height could be an issue depending on the rails. I think tall people have had success with Bride super low rails and the velo mounts. I'm shorter so was able to just make up my own frame from RHS as I had the height to work with. My head just clears the roof with a helmet on.

I'm not sure what you're putting it in but in my S13, using a plumb bob I found that the steering wheel was off centre to the seat by a notable margin, and have since found this in other mates S13s. So I took the opportunity to centre the wheel to the seat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/#findComment-5926435
Share on other sites

They're going in an R33 GT-R. I was looking at maybe picking up a Bride Low Max rail for the drivers side to get me sitting really low - but that would be more a down the track. It's coming with Just Jap Rails and a pair of very low profile billet alloy side mount brackets and a pair of RPM universals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/#findComment-5926565
Share on other sites

They're going in an R33 GT-R. I was looking at maybe picking up a Bride Low Max rail for the drivers side to get me sitting really low - but that would be more a down the track. It's coming with Just Jap Rails and a pair of very low profile billet alloy side mount brackets and a pair of RPM universals.

FWIW mate, several people whom I actually believe anything that comes out of their mouths who have tried the Bride rails say they're shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/#findComment-5926609
Share on other sites

Brown Davis or Meridian custom rails.

And you will not have a problem with the seats if they don't have FIA. You will have a problem if they have any rips on the padding and/or duct tape on the padding.

I have seen a few guys get through with seats in that condition, but they had to talk the talk.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/#findComment-5927686
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

got them in yesterday afternoon, I think they came up well :) don't think i'm actually sitting any lower though. that being said there's really no space to get them any lower! and fk they're hard to get in and out of, I can see a quick release steering wheel coming up before too long....

post-43227-0-29487500-1312155711_thumb.jpg

post-43227-0-41845500-1312155787_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371649-seat-upgrade/#findComment-5943274
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...