Jump to content
SAU Community

Volk Racing Ce28N Rims + Tyre Package - Aggressive Rims


Recommended Posts

links to the aftermarket recommendations?

a tyre stretched 1" more on the rear than the front will have the same rolling diameter?

There are countless threads explaining why not to do it, doesnt mean people dont. It just isnt recommended by most people

Most GT-R Panasports are staggered width, many older 3 piece Volk GT-R fitments were staggered width, Modenas , Koenigs...etc Generally no more than about a 0.5-1" stagger though.

1" of stretch will make 1/17 of bugger all difference to the diameter. Needs to be serious stretch, like stick your finger between the bead and outer lip sort of thing, for it to make a noticeable difference and even then it wouldn't add up to enough to hurt ATTESA in any way.

There are countless threads repeating countless threads, mostly by people who have no experience whatsoever and are just parroting what they read.

If we are talking say 235 or 245/35R19 all round on 19x9.5/10.5" stagger or similar there will be NO issue.

Edited by floody

Meh, you just run same tyre sizes front to rear, total non-issue, many aftermarket recommended fitments for GT-Rs run a slight width stagger.

The thing about 34s surging due to worn tyres is also a bit of an old wives tale. ATTESA can tolerate about 3% diameter difference front to rear, which is almost 20mm on a 235/45R17 (for example). So basically one tyre would have to have 10mm of tread depth and one on the canvas for it to be a big deal. Even at 1.5% we're talking a solid 5mm or so difference in tread wear before there's a problem. If your rear tyres are down to the indicators, surging awd is the least of your issues.

I'm only going on my own experience.. I put same size, offset volk's onto my stagea. The tyres on the front were new and the rears were 15-20% worn. The attessa played up untill I put matching tyres on the back. It's a S2.

I origionally had 265's on the back of the GTR and 255's on the front. Same deal, the attessa would play up untill I put matching size tyres on the front. 32 isn't so bad as the awd system isn't allways engaged like 33-34, but I still had issues with it.

Personally the only staggered fittment I have ever seen on a GTR was a veilside wide body with 14" rears and 12" front rims.. but the atessa had an aftermarket controller.

J.

I've had up to two full tyre sizes different on my S1 with no issue (215/50 and 225/55 when we got it!). I reckon you had another problem somewhere else, which was exacerbated by the tyre sizes.

I'm not saying it isn't an issue at all, just that if you have the same size tyres all round it shouldn't be any issue.

Edited by floody

which is what i was saying.

There are ppl who say it affects it ppl who say it doesnt..what works for someone may not work for others...

Your last line is the perfect reason not to do it, same width wheel and tyre will cause no issues

Edited by jangles

I'm only going on my own experience.. I put same size, offset volk's onto my stagea. The tyres on the front were new and the rears were 15-20% worn. The attessa played up untill I put matching tyres on the back. It's a S2.

I origionally had 265's on the back of the GTR and 255's on the front. Same deal, the attessa would play up untill I put matching size tyres on the front. 32 isn't so bad as the awd system isn't allways engaged like 33-34, but I still had issues with it.

Personally the only staggered fittment I have ever seen on a GTR was a veilside wide body with 14" rears and 12" front rims.. but the atessa had an aftermarket controller.

J.

Same here, not saying its not true, i have not seen it though

Edited by jangles

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
×
×
  • Create New...