Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm weighing up clutches for my r32 GTR. I'd like to know the benefits of a full face clutch vs a 6 puk.

From what I've read the 6 puks are a bit less driveable but I like that in a street car. it won't be my daily so I don't care if it's a bit of a button feeling. It's my preference. Also, I plan on doing it myself (second year apprentice mechanic loves a challenge) is it REALLY that hard? Or just time consuming?

200 kilowatts at the wheels and not sure what I'll need.

Thanks in advance, Sam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371924-clutch-choice/
Share on other sites

pick your clutch depending on you end goal if 200rwkw is all you want (as if ) then the the six puk ( horrible clutch ) will hold it fine, 200rwkw + go a twin plate which are much nicer to drive.

200rwkw is very easy, with full exhaust, pods, cam gears and 18psi on the stock computer my R32 made 231rwkw and ran 11.9 but distroyed single plates, 5 in total before going a twin and that one is still in car now some 5 years later

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371924-clutch-choice/#findComment-5929926
Share on other sites

pick your clutch depending on you end goal if 200rwkw is all you want (as if ) then the the six puk ( horrible clutch ) will hold it fine, 200rwkw + go a twin plate which are much nicer to drive.

200rwkw is very easy, with full exhaust, pods, cam gears and 18psi on the stock computer my R32 made 231rwkw and ran 11.9 but distroyed single plates, 5 in total before going a twin and that one is still in car now some 5 years later

Well it's a gtr so it's putting out 200 stock with the boost restrictors removed. and that's enough for now. Maybe 250 in the future. What makes you think the 6 puk is so bad? Why is it bad? What is the difference in 6 puk to full face in feeling?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371924-clutch-choice/#findComment-5931795
Share on other sites

Well it's a gtr so it's putting out 200 stock with the boost restrictors removed. and that's enough for now. Maybe 250 in the future. What makes you think the 6 puk is so bad? Why is it bad? What is the difference in 6 puk to full face in feeling?

ok, a healthy stock series 1 R32 GTR with only the restrictor removed will make about 170rwkw,

i had 2 6 puks and where grabby, unpredictable and very on/off the 4 puk was worse and the 3 puks was worse again, none of which would hold 231rwkw on a good lunch or quick shift.

the full face are the oppersite easy to slip, very predictable and progressive just like the twin plate, even if you don't want a twin there are some good hyper singles out there that will take 250rwkw but not much more and the good thing with these set ups you get the flywheel clutch plate and cover plate as a direct replacement and if want to unpgrade later they can be converted to twins or even triples

3 of those single plate cost just over the grand mark fitted then i fitted the rest myself cause it was getting to expensive to pay someone, then i sat back and thought about how much it was costing and decided to just go the twin and in the long run it has saved me money and i wish i had of just done it in the first place

rear main seal is a good idea so is the spigeot bearing in the end of the crank

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371924-clutch-choice/#findComment-5931869
Share on other sites

ok, a healthy stock series 1 R32 GTR with only the restrictor removed will make about 170rwkw,

i had 2 6 puks and where grabby, unpredictable and very on/off the 4 puk was worse and the 3 puks was worse again, none of which would hold 231rwkw on a good lunch or quick shift.

the full face are the oppersite easy to slip, very predictable and progressive just like the twin plate, even if you don't want a twin there are some good hyper singles out there that will take 250rwkw but not much more and the good thing with these set ups you get the flywheel clutch plate and cover plate as a direct replacement and if want to unpgrade later they can be converted to twins or even triples

3 of those single plate cost just over the grand mark fitted then i fitted the rest myself cause it was getting to expensive to pay someone, then i sat back and thought about how much it was costing and decided to just go the twin and in the long run it has saved me money and i wish i had of just done it in the first place

rear main seal is a good idea so is the spigeot bearing in the end of the crank

I had a dyne sheet given to me with the car and it read high 170's and it had the restrictors in and running standard boost with rebuilt steel wheel turbos and full 3 inch exhaust. It also has a factory tuned ecu (forget what tuner but a place that's closed now in Japan) so I estimated around 30 kilowatts extra at the flywheel from removing the restrictors and figured a safe guess of 200 at the wheels but I could be very wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371924-clutch-choice/#findComment-5931889
Share on other sites

Do the gearbox gasket and input shaft and tailshaft seal while your there. Job itself is straight forward just gota be creative with ideas when doing it on the ground because the bOxes are heavy but if you got a hoist piss easy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371924-clutch-choice/#findComment-5932201
Share on other sites

I had a dyne sheet given to me with the car and it read high 170's and it had the restrictors in and running standard boost with rebuilt steel wheel turbos and full 3 inch exhaust. It also has a factory tuned ecu (forget what tuner but a place that's closed now in Japan) so I estimated around 30 kilowatts extra at the flywheel from removing the restrictors and figured a safe guess of 200 at the wheels but I could be very wrong.

yeah i'm sure i said stock car with only restrictors removed which is from what you said "well it's a gtr so it's putting out 200 stock with the boost restrictors removed", not one with high flowed turbos ( which is what they do when they put steel wheels in ) a full exhaust and a tuned computer, but yeah high 170s to 200 with the extra 2.5-3 psi sounds about right

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371924-clutch-choice/#findComment-5932271
Share on other sites

Seriously I think theres a lot of threads with clutch info for a GTR in that power range. But off my head, heres a few for you

1) Nismo single/twin Coppermix

2) NPC big mouth

3) ATS twin carbon

4) Jim Berry Full Monty

Personally I'm using the twin Coppermix and know others that have NPC and ATS. Both with excellent review on reliability and drivability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371924-clutch-choice/#findComment-5932450
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...