Jump to content
SAU Community

Balancing Crank And Flywheel If They Are New From Nissan


Recommended Posts

Right so here i am studying the rb26 and other engines as a whole.

I sent a request to japan to a good friend regarding the balancing of the bottom end of a rb26dett.

The response i got from the Nismo shop was something like this .

Imagine we have customers who come in daily who request a after market clutch (Nismo Single or Twin plate ) that comes with its own flywheel.

So they replace these daily and have never not once ever had a come back on any of their jobs where the engine runs a bearing etc because of the bottom end becoming out of balance.

So here is the scenario, you get a balanced crank shaft that has been balanced from the factory .

You get a clutch assembly that has also been balanced from factory by nismo or hks or Exedy.

These two seperate articles are balanced in their own right .

Now you get them balanced and matched to each other so that when you assemble the engine you dont have a crank and flywheel that are out of balance that would damage your engine at high rpm.

Never the less you also have the damper fitted when they balance everything .

Then you have your engine running and 25 000kms later because you have beebn enjoying the car and have been launching it just too many times the clutch packs in, you go off and purchase a new clutch system like you would in Japan .

A complete Kit that comes with the flywheel etc.

Now comes the question, do you take the engine out and remove the crank then send off the flywheel and clutch cover and damper pulley to the balancing shop because its what you did the first time ?

Or do you leave it in like most shops would and then fit the new flywheel solid or dual mass with some loctite and let the customer go off and pay your labour cost because you know as long as the flywheel is balanced and the crank is balanced that both should be balanced when assembled ?

This is something that i have been thinking about for a long time and i have been wanting to post the question up for quite a while now .

I have even gone across the net looking for a similar situation to try and see what other owners of straight six engines are doing but havent found anything .

So im asking on here and on other forums, you have the facts and you even have the fact that nismo doesnt follow the practises that we do so why are we doing it then ?>

Should it be done ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok im not sure if i have posted in the wrong section, no responses lol.

Any ways im going to ask if there is any one who can comment ?

OR shouldi move the post to a technical section rather sorry op's maybe posted this in the wrong place please correct me if im wrong .

Thanks

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those links above are quite helpful mate so you should check em out, but what i would also say is your RB26 gonna be seeing some serious track time,Week end warrior or just a streeter on a hardcore race engine id say yes because at high engine load+high RPM the flywheel/clutch assembly not being balanced with the crank shaft and harmonic/Dampener assemblies will create Crankshaft wobble at high RPM/High speed/Engine load witch isn't a good thing. the RB26 is well known for decent crankshaft wobble at high RPM a harmonic dampener should be invested in after upgrading the oil delivery system in my opinion then the T25's, like it says in one of the articles you should get your pistons, conrods Big end and small end measured and balanced then you can properly balance the crankshaft and harmonic/dampener-Flywheel/clutch assemblies. on a weekend warrior id probably do it to just for piece of mind but if its just a streeter i wouldn't worry about it you wont generate enough High speed/High RPM/Engine loads to cause you problems . One thing to remember to is even though some thing is mass produce doesn't mean there all the same tolerances there is variation from kit to kit and there definitely not gonna be the same as whats in your car currently aslo due to ware on components Fraction of a gram counts when balancing a engine hope this helps you out mate

Edited by KT_87
Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i had my engine built, they balanced everything from the front pulley, back to the os giken twin plate clutch. I brought the motor home, the crank had been marked, as well as the clutch where to line them up when installed. If i replaced the clutch, then it would get balanced the same as this clutch was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i had my engine built, they balanced everything from the front pulley, back to the os giken twin plate clutch. I brought the motor home, the crank had been marked, as well as the clutch where to line them up when installed. If i replaced the clutch, then it would get balanced the same as this clutch was.

my point is different clutch kits weight different amounts it may only be grams but that's a huge difference when balancing an engine so it'll will need to be balanced as mentioned above what application its it being used for

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my point is different clutch kits weight different amounts it may only be grams but that's a huge difference when balancing an engine so it'll will need to be balanced as mentioned above what application its it being used for

im not disagreeing, they balanced mine to something like 0.5g using a hines balancer. Its definitly worth doing to a street engine though as it can help with engine life and fuel economy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no worries man i wasn't getting ticked off sorry if it sounded like that and I've never thought of it benefiting fuel economy before nice one you learn something new everyday

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that KT_87 though i am still wondering about this

So we have everything balanced balancer, then crank then the flywheel assembly, then the clutch cover etc.

But here i have a new crank, new ATI damper pulley, new Nismo twin plate clutch coppermix.

So should i be getting this all rebalanced again ?

And now after i get this all balanced, then does this mean that when i do a clutch change job i have to strip the motor, and re balance everything ?

See my theory is this, they say for high performance engines you need to balance the whole rotating assembly, and i agree with this.

But on a high performance engine you would be stripping it more frequently to get everything redone bearings etc, as this type of engine will be running High BHP and also will see track use all the time pretty much .

Now on a streeter like my nur engine is going to be, its going to be a engine that doesnt see much track use, but more street use, the factory rpm rev limit is at 8400rpm .

So the Nur spec engine is finely balanced and through nissan you have the option of ordering a Complete long block assembly, as well as purchasing a Nur spec short block assembly.That is high balanced too ?

And if this is the case would i still need to strip the engine and resend all the parts excluding the ATI damper pulley for balancing ?

This the reason i ask all these questions lol.

Alot to take it i know but its all for peace of mind, and also for the other users of the forum that seek some good solid answers .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

just an update .

Sent my crank and Nismo twin plate copper mix flywheel and cover for balancing .

And guess what all was in balance not a thing needed touching .

So this means that a N1 crank if there is such a thing is fine balanced from Factory and the Nismo Coppermix twin plate is also balanced from factory and the two articles together are in balance with each other :)

Brilliant stuff.

Now to balance pistons and rods .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Standing around having photos taken on insta. (sad but true). Go to a track day, what is actually there nowadays could suprise you, you need to update your cool car in the hill radar to include VW, Hyundai, BMW etc
    • Hello again, I just want to tell you that i found the reason why my bnr32 is going out in right corners. I had my car tuned by a company and they fitted the Emu Classic and a new fuel pump in 2021. I checked the loom, changed the walbro fuel pump with a Deatschwerks fuel pump. None of this helped. Then I checked the fuel pressure and thought I was crazy. It was tuned with over 7 bar ( over 100psi) !!! But why? So I checked the fuel return line and saw that it was closed. That was probably also the reason why the tuner replaced the fuel pump, but he tuned the Emu with the 7 bar 🫣 The map in the emu has now been changed and evertyhing is fine.
    • I'm going to vote for considering going to the effort to close the lash down to the minimum. My bro-in-law got around to checking the clearances on the 3SGE in his Caldina. Was a bit fat all over. New shims at lowest allowable lash, and the car is remarkably better to drive. It appears that the increase in both total lift and duration that you get from doing this is worth a lot more than you might expect. I have been having evil (and expensive and time consuming) thoughts about doing it to mine, and I don't even think I have a problem. Not that I'd know, though.
    • Thanks for that, it actually sounds fine to me. What oil weight are you running and what kind of oil pressure do you see around idle RPM and a bit over it?
    • https://youtu.be/CCHaKUhZi34?si=PNdluupk9TWFtvws
×
×
  • Create New...