Jump to content
SAU Community

Carputer Using Oem Screen

vee35
 Share

Recommended Posts

vee35 Enthusiast

vee35

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Be very careful with getting a touchscreen overlay - this is the reason I haven't used my R34 MFD screen with an overlay. The MFD is sunlight readable and very clear - if you add the wrong sort of overlay (and most will fall into this category), you'll destroy the sunlight readability.

Found what looks like it may be it for an overlay. It has 91% optical clarity compared to about 85% that I have seen for others, and is made by 3M. see http://www.skylinesa...screen-overlay/

Edited by vee35
vee35 Enthusiast

vee35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I dont think I have mentioned my rear view camera.

Its a $29 CCD unit off of eBay, meant foir a Honda Civic. I have yet to find it "fail" me. The reverse lights are enough to make all situations apear like daylight on the screen. Its wired up to automatically overide anything on the screen, when you put it in reverse. About $20 of relays from JayCar.

I have it installed just above my rear number plate. I plan to install it a little "deeper" into the recess and maybe pait the black pastic silver, but its fairly innocuous where it currently is.post-83571-0-14458700-1312097774_thumb.jpg

for this situation (which is about a meter clearance): post-83571-0-97031500-1312097809_thumb.jpg

It looks like this on the screen. post-83571-0-87185500-1312097843_thumb.jpg

The lines on the screen are brillant for lining up the car down a long narrow driveway in reverse.

vee35 Enthusiast

vee35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And now some "fun" stuff.

Although my Blazt cable does not curr4ently work, this is a photo of the software running a demo file:post-83571-0-60953300-1312098551_thumb.jpg

Also, on my phone, I have a G-Force r4ecorder / plotter. Howsever, since it is freeware, it does not work in landscape, and hence it does not fill the entire screen. It actually has all three dimentions, with the Red line basically being the forward and back plane (ie accel and breaking) and one of the others is left and right (ie cornering) and the last is up and down (ie bumps). In the photo, I did a small acceleration run (red line above middle axis) followed by6 a hard brake to pull over and take a photo.post-83571-0-64708100-1312098583_thumb.jpg Its pretty sensitive, and from the red line graph I can see I started out on fairly flat ground, and stoped o an incline. If the red line had hit the top, it would be telling me I hit about 1G. I can also record these results, and load them up into stuff like excel.

  • 1 month later...
@rawed Rookie

@rawed

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi Vee35

This is great thread..and ur work is Awesome!!!!

Can you let know what relay were used and how to ground the cont1 & cont2 on the board ?

In addtion, how & what wire from the reverse light needs to be connected to the relay so once car is put into reverse the screens shows the camera?

thx..

Edited by @rawed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • GTSBoy
      Comfortable replacement seats for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • r32-25t
      Comfortable replacement seats for R32 GTR

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • GTSBoy
      Shifting questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • GTSBoy
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...