Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im about to go buy a sump from a very popular workshop/store i dont want to mention names but most people would beable to guess anyway. Its for an r32 gtr, originaly he said roughly 1700 if i traded in my sump, that included sump extension to 10L and baffle kit and welded doors etc. Without my sump traded in he said roughly 1800-1850. Now i rang him to say yeah i wanna buy one, cause my car isnt in the process of getting my build done so i cant trade my sump in just yet, so i said ill buy it out right, hes now said its $2000. Is that a little sus/expensive to you guys. Im gunna confront him on the phone tomorrow anyway but i just wanted to hear from someone thats may have had some experience in this specific stuff. I dont normaly question prices etc and just hapily pay although ive been told to watch my wallet around them before.

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372059-sump-extension-price-question/
Share on other sites

250-300 for a sump with diff i've seen for sale on here a few times, i'd say get it writing that he'll give you the 300 back and you should be right, the extra is probley like a deposit to give you more insentive to return your sump back to him, though the fact he changed the price is a bit sus unless he is running low on sumps to prefab

250-300 for a sump with diff i've seen for sale on here a few times, i'd say get it writing that he'll give you the 300 back and you should be right, the extra is probley like a deposit to give you more insentive to return your sump back to him, though the fact he changed the price is a bit sus unless he is running low on sumps to prefab

Ah ok yeah that sounds like what it would be aye, Thanks for the reasurance!

Price is about right, I think I know which shop u r talking about, mine was $1700 nearly 2 years ago now

ah ok, how did u go with fitting it up? was it a direct fit and did everything else come together perfect? cause i had a guy pm saying that the front diff has to be shimmed to each different sump etc and to be careful cause it might not fit and u have to get it customly changed etc. which costs a fair bit. His advice was to give them my sump to modify. Which would be really anoying

Are you in Sydney?

Name the place mate, wont hurt as what he is doing is pretty normal for fab shops and we can all tell you if the shop does a decent job.

A deposit, as has already been said, just ensures you actually take your sump back. Personally i would be asking a bit more for a despoit as they would be worth more than $300 on the second hand market....

I would get your sump done. The diff does need to be set up again and all the prelaods etc done when you swap the sump over. It would be much easier to get yours done. Does this place not have the diff supplied with the exchange sump?

They built the engine and fitted everything up, I havnt had a single problem in two years so I can't realy complain. Also bought a spare sum for like $150 so I just gave them that to start with

If you want to save a few $$$, I have a performance metalcraft sump for sale. few scratches but otherwise new (well besides the scraper)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362490-performance-metalcraft-hi-volume-sump-rb26/page__p__5784962#entry5784962

Hey guys,

I decided to go ahead with the sump as they reassured me it would fit and if theres any dramas to bring it back, so i guess that was good to hear. So i thought i would show u guys what i got. Cause a few of you hear were interested :)

Im quiet happy with the buy although its hard to wrap my head around on how expensive this modifcation is. My only complaint is that the whole sump is quiet dirty, ill have to clean it up before i install it, (which is actualy anoying :/). But the actualy modication is very well done, looks strong, solid, doors work well, extended the pickup arm etc. The pictures dont show the dirt as well, infact make it look really really good. So dont think im just been a fussy person! haha.

I do have a question in one of the photos, just incase its hard to read, My question is that they actualy use a sealing agent through a gun like silicon to attach/seal the sump. Now all the groves etc around the sump is filled with this stuff, ill need to some how dig or clean it out. Just thought id ask if anyone knew of a good way to do this before i started.

Thanks guys!

post-86483-0-08789600-1311671112_thumb.jpg

post-86483-0-33228300-1311671205_thumb.jpg

post-86483-0-60750000-1311671218_thumb.jpg

post-86483-0-52328800-1311671231_thumb.jpg

If you want to save a few $$, I have a performance metalcraft sump for sale. few scratches but otherwise new (well besides the scraper)

http://www.skylinesa...62#entry5784962

Thanks but i went ahead with the buy, check it out on my reply above! :)

Thanks any way mate!

Thats a Performance Metalcraft sump :D

Had you said that from the beginning i would have said you havent got a worry with him, Leon is a champion and does some of the best work i have ever seen. Shame he didnt have the diff though

FYI re the gasket goo, thats what NIssan specify when bolting the sump to the block. Use heaps of it, dont be shy. You should see sealant ooze out the side all around the sump. Thats when you know its gpoing to seal properly. I use to use about 3/4 of a tube of the stuff on every sump i bolted up lol

I find the best way to clean it is razor blades. Hold them 90 degrees to the sump and scrape away. You will go through a few blades but it wirks really well on every surface you will need to clean on an RB26. A small screw driver works well at scraping out the sealant in the dents on the sealing surface. When all thats done, go to town on it with a wire brush.

Do yourself a favour though, grey selaer looks so much better than the red sealant they supply with the gasket kit. Use the Loctite Ultra Grey on everything. Sump, water pump, rocker cover gaskets (cam cap corners, half moons etc)

Edited by ido09s

Thats a Performance Metalcraft sump :D

Had you said that from the beginning i would have said you havent got a worry with him, Leon is a champion and does some of the best work i have ever seen. Shame he didnt have the diff though

FYI re the gasket goo, thats what NIssan specify when bolting the sump to the block. Use heaps of it, dont be shy. You should see sealant ooze out the side all around the sump. Thats when you know its gpoing to seal properly. I use to use about 3/4 of a tube of the stuff on every sump i bolted up lol

I find the best way to clean it is razor blades. Hold them 90 degrees to the sump and scrape away. You will go through a few blades but it wirks really well on every surface you will need to clean on an RB26. A small screw driver works well at scraping out the sealant in the dents on the sealing surface. When all thats done, go to town on it with a wire brush.

Do yourself a favour though, grey selaer looks so much better than the red sealant they supply with the gasket kit. Use the Loctite Ultra Grey on everything. Sump, water pump, rocker cover gaskets (cam cap corners, half moons etc)

haha ah really. well i bought it from crd anyways. But they probaly make them exactly the same these days. Looks really good tho. I looked up performance metalcraft sump and saw they look very similar and quility work.

Thanks for the information about the goo and cleaning. That helps alot! I might try cleaning it up this weekend. Ill keep in mind about the grey sealer over the red one, Thanks for the heads up!

haha ah really. well i bought it from crd anyways. But they probaly make them exactly the same these days. Looks really good tho. I looked up performance metalcraft sump and saw they look very similar and quility work.

Thanks for the information about the goo and cleaning. That helps alot! I might try cleaning it up this weekend. Ill keep in mind about the grey sealer over the red one, Thanks for the heads up!

Leon does the work for CRD and many other workshops in Sydney. If you got it from CRD its even stranger that they dont have the diff..... I would have thought they of all people would understand its easier to supply the diff.

Its all good. Always glad to pass the information i have picked up over the years

be carefull using too much sealant on your sump as the last thing you want is for it to drop inside the sump and block your oil pickup

Thats the joy of Loctite Ultra Grey, i am yet to see any of it come lose from the inside of the engine and i have stripped down some engines several years after they were originally put together. They were race cars which were stripped and checked every couple of years

Edited by ido09s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 馃槀 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
  • Create New...