Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had read that somewhere, but couldn't justify the price for a street car, vs some spacers and bolts that cost me nothing.

Yep, I hear you.

I can get these for far less than RRP if you ever decide you want them.

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I machined up some spacers (just a thick washer really), you could use a stack of washers if you really had to. If you want I could make you some spacers out of ally, and get the bolts for you. pm if you want it.

No worries, I do the H/D Links for $135 a pair; bar prices I'm happy to PM.

Is it worth my time throwing together a fresh group buy?

If we can get 5 people to confirm their interest; I'll get one together.

Prices would be increased possibly $10-$15 per bar over my original 2011 Group buy prices.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/372067-c34-stagea-sway-bar-group-buy/

I think I spoke to you at the Putty Road cruise regarding this and was too lazy/busy to follow up. :(

Looking at sway bars for the V35 but not sure on what to go with. Factory, it has a 34mm front and 24mm rear. Considering that I can't see any larger sizes, not sure what the benefits would be?

If there are benefits, then I'd be interested in joining a GB considering if all things line up :)

I think I spoke to you at the Putty Road cruise regarding this and was too lazy/busy to follow up. :(

Looking at sway bars for the V35 but not sure on what to go with. Factory, it has a 34mm front and 24mm rear. Considering that I can't see any larger sizes, not sure what the benefits would be?

If there are benefits, then I'd be interested in joining a GB considering if all things line up :)

Hi Tony, I do remember having a chat actually!

Don't forget the OEM bars are hollow; so going to the 32mm solid front & 20mm solid rear is a huge increase in roll stiffness.

Yours I can do as a one off anytime; so when you are ready mate.

Hi Tony, I do remember having a chat actually!

Don't forget the OEM bars are hollow; so going to the 32mm solid front & 20mm solid rear is a huge increase in roll stiffness.

Yours I can do as a one off anytime; so when you are ready mate.

Of course you remember the dark guy in a SAU QLD polo rolling in a N16 Pulsar! :P

I was looking at one of the companies in the states and they had the same sizes as factory - must be solid then. Can you acquire these, and if so what dorras are we looking at? Feel free to PM me if required :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.
    • Hi Brent, I am wondering if you ever worked this out? I have upgraded this unit to a newer one and everything works bar the reverse camera, so i really want to know what plugs are what so I can patch the camera through. many thanks in advance Mike
    • Once you have to get up in the morning and be useful, you suddenly value sleep it turns out :p
    • Update:   smoke test all pipes no issues cleaned reservoir   fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf)   steering turn side to side and could hearing  gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system)   anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed  by engine on and same result       going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts?   would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out?   or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i
    • Yeah, the plan is to just put some black rubber vacuum line caps over them to "hide" them a bit I don't want to trim them in cause I need to put the OEM box back on at some stage
×
×
  • Create New...