Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: 1993 NISSAN SKYLINE R32 Gtst, R32 Gtst Rb25det engine

Location: QLD: Brisbane

Postcode: 4211

Odometre: 135,000 kilometres

Asking Price: $5,000 as is

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: Study

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: 0450 963 623

Extra Information:

1993 Nissan R32 Skyline Gtst

Currently registered will be sold without unless prior arrangement made, will pass RWC can refer to workshop that handled previous RWC in Qld months ago.

Has the following:

Genuine GTR bonnet - $350

Genuine GTR grill - $250

Coilovers - $1000

Vertex Kit - $400

Enkei rims with BRAND NEW rears and 95% fronts - $1500 Incl tyres

New brake pads - $60 a pair

Complete dash - Most R32's dont

Boost Gauge - $50

Intercooler - $450

Lsd - Shimmed unit

Head unit - Its a cheap nasty one, but it works

Complete Rb20det which is pulled down at the moment.

Will be sold with a Series 2 Rb25det engine ( $1300 ) if price is over $6000 otherwise as is.

Do the math you would make more then this parting it out. It has 135,00km on the clock and ran extremely well, I then decided to go with the Rb25det hence the pull down, but am now returning to study and no longer wish to finish it. The front bar, skirts and rear bar need to be painted and then either finish the 20 or put the 25 in and you have a capable street car.

You can inspect if you wish please just contact me on 0450 963 623.

If this doesnt sell I will just finish it at put it up for more money just trying to see if I can save myself some hassle and save you some money buying it as is.

post-43970-0-43471600-1311638065_thumb.jpg

post-43970-0-04178600-1311638088_thumb.jpg

Edited by LowgZ
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372081-1993-nissan-skyline-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

IF IT GOES FOR UNDER $3000 YOU WILL NOT GET THE RIMS,BONNET,RB25DET OR GRILL

IF IT GOES FOR UNDER $3500 YOU WILL NOT GET THE RIMS OR THE RB25DET

IF IT GOES FOR UNDER $4500 YOU WILL NOT GET THE RIMS



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...