Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought this car about a year ago now of the original owner who imported it in to australia. i have all the import papers with. as per normal it was ment to have all this work done to it take it to the hill climb track for it first practice and breaks valve stem guides. So one thing leads to another and we have fully rebuilt have plenty of photos of all the new parts and receipts to prove it. it is a very quick car on dont really want to sell it but i have been offered a job interstate and it isnt going to get used so would like to see someone else enjoy it. it has 12 months rego and i have only run it in an tuned and done 3 hill climbs with it. just seeing if there is some one out there who wants it. has near new kumho ku36s on it aswell. would be probably lookin for around the 23 mark which i think is quite resonable for what it is

Engine:

Rebuilt less than 2000km ago: Makes 319rwkw on 20PSI ? Tuned by RacePace

- CP forged Pistons

- ACL race bearings

- eagle rods

- OS Giken cam gears

- Oil gallery modifications

- N1 Oil Pump

- Oil filter relocation kit

- carbonetics twin plate clutch

- 1.5 way diff

Fuel System:

- Blitz 700 Injectors

- Nismo fuel pump

- Nismo fuel pressure regulator

Induction:

- Z32 airflow meters

- Garret 2860 (-5) Turbos x2

Exhaust:

- 4 inch Custom "RacePace"? exhaust - Turbo back

Cooling:

- PWR Radiator

- 28 row oil cooler

- Air Diversion panel

- Standard GTR Intercooler

Brakes:

- AP Racing 6 pot ? 360mm Rotors

- Hawk race pads

Electronics:

- Blitz Spec R Dual solenoid boost controller

- Apexi Power FC with hand controller

Interior:

- full bolt in cage

- recaro drivers seat

post-77195-0-40888500-1311652115_thumb.png

post-77195-0-77872100-1311652281_thumb.png

post-77195-0-66822900-1311652421_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372103-r32-gtr-trackstreet/
Share on other sites

rebuild was finished in about may

rebuild was done by old man who is a mechanic of 30 years+ and tuned at race pace

it was bored out new pistons, rods, bearings clutch balanced fly wheel balanced harmonic balancer balanced new valve stem guides and seals new injectors fitted

post-77195-0-64585900-1312081058_thumb.jpg

it did but as per normal bought it of someone that wasnt really shore what had been done and first time at the hill climb track it broke a valve stem guide so did it once and did it properly now it is all good will put some photos up to prove the new pistons and all

yes still using the crank and there is no issues at all with the car. the thing with the crank is when ya smashin them on the rev limiter all the time and that is one thing i dont do can assure you of that, doesnt make you go any quicker. will get some of the in side when i have it out next. there are no back seats because of the cage recaro drivers seat no cd player not one for all the doof doof shit just nice clean and simple.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...