Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Extremely regretful sale, and I'll probably kick myself when it does go, but i'm building my 2nd house and would prefer to get something more practical that I won't be tempted to spend money on for a while. Car has just had a photo-shoot and is set to appear in Hot4's & Performance Imports Magazine in the November Issue (212).

Around $55k has been spent on this thing over the four years I've had it (Including the car), and have receipts for a majority of the work and complete cost breakdown throughout the build (although looking back, I wish I didn't keep track haha). As you guys would know with Genuine parts it all fits perfect and costs a bucketload, but you get what you pay for with quality and rarity of these parts.

I'm listing the price at $27,500 which to most will seem pricey, but keep in mind the parts that have been used aren't your typical Tempe Tyres rims / local panel shop slapped on bodykit and seat covers.

It's currently registered until September, but the plates WILL NOT be included in the sale.

I think I've covered everything but if there's any other questions just ask. Email is [email protected]

CARSALES LINK: CLICK CLICK

Price: $27,500

Location: Mount Gambier, SA

Not overly keen on swaps but as long as it has a fair cash adjustment my way to go toward the new house I may consider them.

Car Information:

1993 Toyota Supra RZ (Originally purchased from TSi - Sydney in 2007, First Australian Owner other than the dealership)

3L Twin Turbo

Automatic Trans

88,000km (judging by the condition the car was in when I purchased it and the fact it hadn't been driven for a good 3 years whilst I had it I'd say there is a good chance they're genuine).

Engine Bay:

HKS Catback Exhaust (Import Monster)

GREDDY intercooler kit (Receipt)

Pod filter

Sprayed satin black

Gas strut conversion

Painted Highlights (Fuse covers / Timing Cover)

Greddy Oil Sandwich Plate with Sensors for gauges (supplied, but not yet installed)

Exterior:

Full GENUINE Border Racing body kit (Import Monster - Close to $6000 delivered and a 3-4 month boat trip) As far as I am aware this is the ONLY FULL Border Racing bodykit in Australia. There was one a year or so ago in Perth with the Border kit, but no bonnet, and I have seen a couple of front bar's pop up here and there, but never the full kit, so it's quite rare.

- Front Bar

- Rear Bar

- Side Skirts

- JGTC Hood

Shaved ariel, rear wiper and badges

Windows removed and new OEM Window trims fitted (Front and Rear)

Custom Respray - Ford Velvet (Receipt)

Genuine Series 2 tail lights (SF Group Buy)

Genuine Series 2 front indicators (SF Group Buy)

Genuine US Spec glass headlights (Receipt)

Clear side repeaters

Wheels, Brakes & Suspension:

BC Height / Damper Adjustable Coilovers (Receipt)

Volk GT-7 (20x9.5 / 20x10.5) with Pirelli P-Zero tyres (Import Monster)

4/2 Big Brake upgrade with slotted rotors (J-Imports)

SABER anodized wheel nuts

Interior:

Full custom trim (Signature Vehicle Interiors) consisting of:

- Front seats

- Rear seats

- Glove box

- Dash (completely removed and retrimmed)

- Door trims

- Sub box panel

- Gear shift

- Steering Wheel

- Handbrake

- Roof lining

- Sun-visors

Custom color matched plastics

- Rear quarter inserts

- Hatch lining

- Door sills

- Steering column cover

Genuine Border Racing 3x gauge panel (color coded) (RHD Japan)

SABER Boost gauge

SABER Oil Temp gauge

SABER Oil Pressure gauge

Centre Dash plastics and highlights painted 1B9 Quicksilver

Stereo:

Custom fibreglass enclosure for 12" subwoofers

Kenwood 1000WRMS Monoblock amplifier

2x Soundstream 12" Subwoofers

JVC Headunit (MP3/CD/USB/iPod)

Soundstream front speakers (color coded grills)

Fusion PowerPlant rear speakers

217433_10150577220515294_813195293_18417282_7696361_n.jpg

215262_10150577213170294_813195293_18417203_333296_n.jpg

198028_10150452390500294_813195293_17870746_5873324_n.jpg

198218_10150452398945294_813195293_17870831_5408965_n.jpg

208667_10150569992450294_813195293_18334830_5974134_n.jpg

215317_10150569992630294_813195293_18334833_2581462_n.jpg

263590_10150682359930294_813195293_19560678_6574320_n.jpg

261573_10150682360355294_813195293_19560685_410115_n.jpg

254188_10150670914465294_813195293_19413731_6575003_n.jpg

260147_10150682375690294_813195293_19560932_2730132_n.jpg

Edited by MR CRX
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372122-sa-1993-toyota-supra-rz-twin-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...